Yes, the .4 is for when you don't have bracing on one side. It is empirically derived. The girt in this case is somewhere between fully braced and unbraced when the unsheeted side is in compression. As you have calculated, the bridging is doing a lot for member capacity.
In a way.
MU = phi * 2 *Fu * (pi * db2 / 4) * sum(dn)
The 2 in the step before solving for db is for two bolts in a row. If you had four bolts in a row, the fours would cancel out.
271828 got it while I was typing.
If you are sheeting more than 20% of the wall area of a wall, you no longer have an open building (26.2).
The obstruction to flow is for what is "inside" the building (compressors, hay bails, RVs). You would probably need to check both free flow and obstructed for a carport.
Seems likely that the 241144 is the piece length, so maybe 24'-11.44" long. This seems too long for a 5" member though. The 05 could be a member count. Unless you have the bill of materials, you'll need to put a tape measure on the girt to get the size unfortunately.
Reading the commentary, yes the windward width is based on the calculated windward drift height, and is not limited by the clear height. The design drift height would stop at the clear height.
The 13th edition of the manual did not have the eccentricity requirement for the conventional single shear plate. In that manual the single plate and single angle had the same maximum load. The 14th added the eccentricity requirement with guidance from this paper Muir and Thornton (2011). It...
Once you design the frame for strength, you will find the actual deflection to be much less than the limit.
This is how to achieve the same affect as cambering without having to bend/make curved members.
I would still use a tab welded to the beam web/flange. This would be easier to assemble in the field, and it would give some adjustment to locate the brace at both ends.
If you were wanting the groove weld to be a CJP, the weld will require overhead welding. Using a tab would likely not need...
Probably 5/8" bolt with the standard edge distance. 3/4" bolt standard edge distance is 1". You can go less, but you need to check it more closely.
The 3/4" bolt head or washer might be getting into the fillet of the W8x10. I remember seeing where overlapping the fillet a small amount is ok...