I'd just like to thank all of you for your various inputs. We already use a larger starter motor and nice thick cables, etc. My main missing link was understanding what happens to mixing big and little batteries and your replies have educated me there. I quit working in engineering two years...
The rest of the cars electrics are isolated and only connect to the small battery/alternator. The big slave battery feeds through a solenoid activated by the starter switch (and small battery).
Although this is professional team in a professional series it is not Formula 1 where teams spend millions to solve every little problem. The problem I'm trying to help with is simply to get a normal commercially available starter motor to spin the high compression engine faster. With the two...
I'm trying to help a professional race car team with their battery and starter motor system. Being a race car weight is critical, but the ability to start the engine is even more important!
The onboard battery is a small lightweight 12v AGM battery with a 26 amphour rating. The "slave" battery...
Got you on the slow heating. Just give me some guidance on the temp to aim for 80? 100? 120? - will use a temp gun to check both surfaces. Many thanks - Derek
Thx Berkshire for your encouraging reply.
The parts were not autoclaved - just hand laid up in heavy old fiberglass molds which unfortunately no longer exist. All this was done at shop temperature plus whatever minor amount of resin curing heat might have been generated - as I said the skins...
Last year I had some lightweight epoxy-resin fiberglass panels made for a project - details below. They were in unheated, dry storage for about 12 months, sitting "on end" (which should have caused no external deforming forces) but have now warped to a small, but significant extent - presumably...