I would think the building department would make the owner(s) backfill the pit. They don't like open pits next to sidewalks for extended periods of time.
This looks like Philadelphia. The rubble wall is clearly at the same bottom of elevation as it's no longer neighbors. Do you mean the front porch area?
You can undermine walls within reason, similar to an underpinning operation. You can even underpin the location of house that is about to fall...
I'm assuming those are helical piles. It is not uncommon for them to be 4" or so off centerline. I've come to the conclusion you need a portion of the slab to resist the torsion from this eccentricity. Forget about the grade, many times the foundation is basement, well below grade.
I'd thicken...
Should be fine. What do they have specified, 2 grade beams going into the assumed over excavated garage/basement location (18' wide)? I put a 2x4 key and thickened slab in anticipation of the builder not compacting the soil properly.
My guess is the elevation is facing South and in an area of freeze/thaw commonly occurring during the winter (i.e. 20^ at night, 40^ day) during winter months. Water is collecting directly under the lintel and it is popping out the concrete to the rebar.
Most want a recessed hot tup when putting on a deck. You simply create a steel frame to support the hot tub and rest of deck is wood. The cost depends on a contractor. When you find a contractor who can put up steel, weld, and frame wood without blinking an eye, keep that contractor. Because it...
Yes, beam going through a non-bearing CMU wall. I want to bolt an angle underneath and turn the non-bearing wall into a bearing wall temporarily. Trying to get a safe load estimate for each connector if angle is on one side and flat plate on the other.
Don't forget to tell the contractor to nail the sub-floor to the top of the beam when flush. It's the difference between a floor that moves in an uncomfortable way to one that feels sturdy.
I've always designed jack studs to carry the gravity and king studs to carry the wind acting on the surface. 10' with only 1 king on each side would never calc.
I have some temporary shoring needs and would like to gain enough temporary strength using steel plates on each side of a 8" hollow wall (assumed hollow).
Having some difficulty finding some acceptable values, per bolt (3/4, 1", etc), for this application. Any help on this subject would be...
