@gte447f The beams and footings were done by the previous owner.
I want to finish my basement and perhaps add a second floor some day.
The town inspector did a rough inspection and didn't like the columns and beams.
He said they are new but never inspected and look insufficient, so I will do...
The beam is 10', triple 2'x8" LVL (nominal), with lots of MEP fixtures attached.
I see there are some long structural screws (red color, the kind used for sistering LVLs, or maybe for attaching a deck to ledger board) toe-nailed through the top of the beam 45 degrees into the joist above, on...
Thanks all again.
Yes, above the beam is all the MEP, plus HVAC tubing, all needing re-routing, plus a rough framed bathroom that will need to come down.
So it is costly to raise the beam flush with the ceiling.
I am hoping steel will save me from doing this.
I've got 2 new ideas though:
New...
Thanks all. I do have a height requirement. I need the basement height from finished floor to finished ceiling under the beam to be 6'-6" for livable space requirement.
So a top nailer will probably not be ok. (The wood beam I am replacing is 8" depth nominal, sagging and is well under the 6'-6"...
I will replace an insufficient wood support beam with a steel W or H beam.
The joists sit on top of the beam. Because it is an old house there is a lot of electric and plumbing over the beam so I cannot raise the beam.
Currently the joists are nailed (actually ledger screwed) to the wood beam...
