KootK, I want to address some of your comments:
"Gaps between members that are trivial in normally proportioned trusses will get uncomfortably large. Very shallow web cuts are tough to do accurately at the saw."
I suspect saws have changed a lot since you were in the business. They're much...
There's no way to make an intelligent assessment based on those tiny little pictures.
The OP said: "I can't imagine that typical truss design software can really handle this problem reliably."
That's utterly ridiculous. Designing trusses is what the software was made to do.
Two suggestions...
I'm no lawyer, but I believe you're doing the right thing. If something goes wrong and they can prove you knew about it, they'll hang you out to dry in a second.
Just for the heck of it I ran a 40' truss today. This is what the program came up with for a shop drawing.
There's an option to print calcs to a PDF file. You should find it attached if you care to take a look. But it's almost 40 pages of stuff based on all the load cases. And for the...
My main worry in this case would be fastening the 2X12s to the posts. It would take a hell of a lot of fasteners to support that much weight.
Some areas around here allow lower live loads for trusses that humans aren't typically in. That might possibly make a difference in the building...
I can't see enough of the truss to make a valid guess as to whether the walls(s) are bearing or not.
The roof pitch looks pretty steep, so they quite possibly could be designed to clear span.
I agree that the crack could possibly be truss uplift. But there's no sign of moisture in the attic...
No one has ever asked me for reactions to be broken out before. The program does not give us any control over what appears on the drawings.
It might be possible to get them by printing out calcs for each load case. I've never tried it. If I think of it tomorrow I'll give it a shot.
Forcing someone to spend thousand of dollars to install plywood just to make you feel good is not reasonable.
The CLBs are supposed to be braced with diagonals anyway. So that wouldn't add much cost.
I would assume that the top flange of the beam has to be braced. (Unless you analyze it as un-braced) So you can't just set joists on top f it.
The most common detail I see around here is a 2X plate bolted to the top flange, and the floor joists nailed to it.
