Recent content by RontheRedneck

I would assume that the top flange of the beam has to be braced. (Unless you analyze it as un-braced) So you can't just set joists on top f it. The most common detail I see around here is a 2X plate bolted to the top flange, and the floor joists nailed to it.

Before you require it, I'd suggest asking a truss manufacturer to see if it's possible. Better to know ahead of time than to have to change the plans later.

I agree with what jayrod12 said: "...this type of detailing has been done forever without issues that I've been made aware of." I've had a lot of architects and engineers fret of horizontal deflection. But I've never seen a building that had issues because of it.

I'm usually happy if things are just spelled correctly:

Sorry - I missed that in the OP. I'm guessing it's what I said "Contractors and framers for some reason seem determined to only use the 11 7/8" depth, and they want to push the spans as far as they can." I find that both puzzling and annoying.

I don't have a problem with I-joists in general. But I strongly recommend that the span to depth ratio is no more than 18 to 1. i.e. an 11 7/8" I-joist should span no more than 18', no matter what the flange width. It was somewhere in the 1990s that I-joist manufacturers started moving...

I looked up the text on Simpson's website about how they rate hanger capacities: "Evaluation is based on a minimum of three static load tests in wood assemblies. The published allowable load is the lower of the tested ultimate with a safety factor of 3, load at 1⁄8" deflection or the NDS...

My best guess is that those blocks are a half-assed attempt to brace the web. But it's difficult to say for sure without seeing the original truss design. They're not standard industry practice, and that's not an acceptable way to brace a web. . As someone else said, those trusses are not...

I see plans all the time that say something like "solid blocking under girders down to the foundation". So I don't see what the issue is.

I'm with Jerseyshore - You'd be setting yourself up for trouble.

I don't like to see brick supported by wood. Obviously wood changes and moves with changes in moisture. Brick does not.

Another vote for over-framing.

I think it's reasonable to design for more dead load on steeper roofs.

I wonder if it would be possible to bolt a wood late to the bottom flange of the steel beam, then brace it to the bottom of the floor truss or I-joist. Guess it depends on the depth of the beam relative to the floor members.

This was discussed at length in a couple of recent threads: https://www.eng-tips.com/threads/optimal-girder-setback-pre-engineered-hip-roof.518560/ https://www.eng-tips.com/threads/another-girder-truss-setback-question.524075/ Not sure I could add anything else that's useful beyond what's in...