Recent content by Zibraz

Hey Desertfox. Yeah I kind of guessed that might play into it. So it's just deciding whether the sheet is thick and strong enough to cope with the torque of the screw. We usually deal with aluminium and steel sheets between 1-3mm depending on the application and forces of the overall design...

When designing sheet metal, what are the considerations made to decide whether you will use a pem clinch nut or jus a normal thread? Typically, I felt that pem nuts are always better than threads in aluminum sheets, but Steel sheets are much stronger and stripping a thread is more difficult...

I never used the ordinate system before. I would be tempted but I suspect the other engineers wouldn't be too happy with this system for dimensioning. I float the idea over to see their opinion on it. If I can't get my drawing approved internally, I can't get it sent out.

I have a pretty complex part to draw and a specific view is loaded with features. Placing all the dimensions on a single view just makes the whole thing look like a mess and ocnfusing. Usually I would do something like dimension the hard edges on one page, then the holes on the second page, but...

This will be for a prototype of a sealed box which will be purged with Nitrogen with other bits inside. I know the required shores hardness and material required for my application. I'm just trying to estimate the size of O-ring required. I'm fairly certain my assumption is correct, but assuming...

Is it reasonable to assume that the inner circumference of the O-ring roughly equals the inner perimeter of my O-ring groove? If so I can work out my required diameter and order a few O-rings of roughly that size to increase the odds of getting it right. The above O-ring has an inner length...

I have designed jigs previously for my other projects but I don't think this lends it's self well to a jig. The way we have to design the top part of the machine means the middle deck highlighted needs to shift up and down. I was thinking of reducing the size of the screws and having a steel...

I was considering looking for some sort of screw jack which can be removed. It was going to be one of the solutions I present to see what my manager prefers. Something like that would do pretty well I think, their pretty cheap aswel.

Not a large distance. Probably something like +/- 8mm at absolute max.

Sorry, yes I did. My bad. It's assembled once. It won't be taken apart unless a part fails, which is unlikely. It's a one time adjustment during build which shouldn't change.

I need this middle deck adjustable vertically because of potential tolerance stack up problems. I have been trying to figure out the best elegant solution and this is the "best" solution I have come up with. A long M4 x 80mm screw goes through a self clinch nut. This screw will push against...

Actually yeah, an e-clip is the easiest and simplest solution. Quick to install and requires less work. I will go with that, thanks!

I could reverse it, but my only worry is the stud coming loose (Unless I put tons of lock tight on it.

I think this is what I might go with. I have been looking up all sorts of unique and interesting methods to retain it. Dropping a plate down with a shoulder screw to retain it, putting a thread at the end of one hole as a sort of stop and captive washers. I think the easiest solution is to...

I'm struggling here. I have a clamp which will be tightened over a rod. The clamp and rod will be enclosed in a box and the thru hole you can see in the model will not be easily accessible. I'm trying to think of ways to fit a captive screw in this thru hole so it can be tightened from outside...