If you are adding back a new wall of the length shown in your sketch I think there should be plenty of stiffness/strength and I wouldn't get too hung up on that requirement.
Interesting.
The job I'm considering is moving the home to an adjacent lot, probably more difficult than just lifting, but that's the contractors job to sort.
I've seen CFS systems (proprietary) that utilize hot rolled columns as the vertical elements at the ends of "shear walls", and these columns do resist the entirety of the base shear in bending. It's not really a conventional shear wall system but somewhat of a hybrid.
What about a keyway formed into the walls, same depth as the slab? Probably still needs rebar for diaphragm shear transfer but at least you get concrete bearing to carry the gravity loads which would make me feel better when having to deal with post-installed anchors for contractor screw-ups.
I guess if the masons can reasonably build the foundation under a house supported by beams than I should be able to ask for some connectors from the existing band/rim down to the sill plate. Maybe some Simpson framing angles or other miscellaneous connectors will work.
Probably true.
Ever had issue with complaints about cracking/damage of interior finishes being blamed on the foundation/engineering? I can't imagine when they move these things that stuff doesn't start to pop on the inside of the home.
I've also done a lot of 6" spacing each way when needed, without much issue. Contractors who build these water bearing structures are used to heavy bars and tight spacing. The harder part is getting staggered laps and additional bars around openings.
Makes sense. In the case of CMU foundation walls with a solid grouted top course would you specify some minimum distance away from girders or other point loads for the rigging beams to make sure the cold joint in the grouting from the leave out sections doesn't cause issue? A true bond beam...
Anyone ever design a new foundation for an existing residential structure that is going be lifted, moved, and set down on the new foundation? I've seen (pictures) of contractors moving an entire house, normally with steel beams to support the structure on some type of trailer/rig, so I know it...
I've always wondered this myself. See below something similar I think to what others have described here. This isn't my detail and I haven't used it personally so I really can't say how it fairs against other schemes.
It's not.
PT LVL's aren't common where I live, and untreated LVL for this application is.
The link shows that there can be some debate about whether treated products are required in this application.
Personally I would size the beam to clear span.
I have mixed feelings on LVL that may get wet; I see them specified for porch roofs all the time in my area. Also see the link below from Weyerhaeuser. Still a little on the fence about it though...
Yea the split starter notch is great, compliments to the chef.
Demand is 440# (D+LL). SDWS screws at 200#/screw should be pretty easy to carry that load back to the band, and good idea about a full depth hanger.
So a contractor I do work with from time to time called me out to look at something. The inspector failed his floor framing because he over-notched the joists due to an existing 2x4 ledger strip (dark colored wood) rather than the typical 2x2 strip (it's a renovation job). So now I'm trying to...
Yes, I guess my choice of words was wrong there. Generally I just mean that with thin metal and wide variety of construction quality I prefer screws. Welders can sometimes make a mess out of the simplest things......
I've always used screws. Welds are fine for the joists, but I get concerned about burning through 20 ga metal deck. If using 18 ga or thicker than screws or welds makes no difference for me.
