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Well, I assembled it with the parts mentioned in the original post. I used WKTaylor's quoted 100-140 in/lb for dry parts, and added the turning torque. The turning torque was about 40 in/lb with new bolts and nuts,(and maybe 20 with used ones). The hardware is all new. The loctite as lubricant...

Would these be a good choice?

Looking into those now, Thanks. Yeah. I really don't like the idea of changing the design. I'll probably try it since I have the extras. I have an acetylene torch, and a small anvil. I have no rivet sets, and no experience hot riveting. John

Sorry I didnt get back to this sooner, I have been a bit distracted with taxes.... Yes, 1936 Pontiac. I was and am concerned about that. The holes are not perfect. The gear is extremely hard, making it difficult to do anything about that. I wanted to rivet it and still do. I have found it...

Yes, steel rivets. quote: Are you familiar with the difference between "running torque" and "installation torque"? The self-locking nuts put up resistance to turning (that's the point) and your installation torque is additional to that torque. The sum being what you apply with your wrench...

Thanks for responding! Yes, I did and that was one of several conflicting answers I came up with before posting. Since this is aircraft hardware, rather than grade 8, I thought people would be more familiar with it here. If this thread doesn't go anywhere, I'll try over in Mechanical...

Hi, I am John, and I am new here. I have a shear bolt question. I am using this hardware to bolt an automotive differential ring gear on (this will not fly), I just want to get the best from the hardware. The gear is hardened steel, and the flange it bolts to is something a bit softer, probably...