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I've done a few different things. I've used the Simpson ICF-VL ledger connectors successfully. The contractor didn't like the costs, but what do they want from us in that regard? The other detail, I've had them remove the insulation at the anchor locations prior to pouring the wall and have the...

Or would you use the length of the wall as the buckling height due to the restraint provided by the flanges? That's more where I'd be inclined. Or maybe the larger of, length of wall versus storey height.

Maybe I'm mis-understanding, but you don't have the option to turn solve off for the load combos you don't want included? Or does the program include those cases even if the solve box is unchecked?

Assuming this supports only one floor, using the code prescribed live load reduction in part 4, you can reduce the live loads 17%. If it's a two storey, with the trib areas indicated, you can reduce it 32%. So there's likely some room there as well.

How taxed is the beam, what about potentially a thin plate on the bottom, notched into the bottom of beam if necessary, with threaded rods/bolts up to a larger plate on the top side of the beam. Essentially sandwiching the beam between two plates. That upper plate is designed and fabricated big...

Agreed with the above poster. Have the solve box checked for the LCs you want to run, and not checked for the remainder, choose batch solution and ensure include envelope is checked. That will give you all the LC results for the chosen cases, and also an envelope.

What about just a plate, or channel, or angle, below the beam that are then connected to your hangers. This is assuming we can project below the underside of beam a bit.

From those clippings, it appears the posts sit on top of your foundation wall? If so, the wall will spread the load out quite significantly as indicated by other posters above.

If I'm understanding his description though, the steel beam doesn't sit on the foundation wall. It sits directly on the footing, just inside of the foundation wall. So you can't count on the wall spreading the load out like we normally would.

This is pretty niche stuff to be honest. There's a lot of cutting in the proper bearing seats to match the geometry and long screws. I've also seen a lot of mortise and tenon joints with dowels. If you have a way to, watch Timber Kings. It's a standard old man type show but the details you get...

Aren't these essentially two way slabs with a lower dead load?

Because normally the thing supporting a main floor is a foundation wall around the perimeter.

Then I really don't buy the axial load argument if this is the end connection at the main floor level. There's a column at the exterior end of a beam below the main floor? Seems odd.

Run? If the architect can't understand that the two building shouldn't be connected, then I'm not sure what else you can do. You could talk him into bracing between the columns in one direction and maybe turning them into moment frames in the other, provide a movement joint between the garage...

Agree with Bridgesmith, I don't really think there's a better way than using the conservative inscribed circle. I guess there'd be a way for you to circumvent it by determining your anchor spacing and edge distances and make a rectangular model that matches, just not sure how that would work...

As usual, albeit it's been a while, I agree with KootK. That connection detail screams moment resistance to me.

I was under the impression that the stiffeners discussed in 13.4.1.1 is transverse stiffeners. Check out the commentary, specifically figure 2-14. It shows transversely stiffened webs. Unfortunately I have no reference for horizontally stiffened webs. I would think that would only improve...

I'm anticipating that the pre-fabricated modules are coming with a wall bottom plate already installed? Or is it platform framing on the floor? If platform framed, you should be able to coordinate anchor locations with floor joist locations to avoid a conflict. If not platform framed, i.e...

You have more bearing than specified. You're fine. A solid 4x6 is far better than a built up 2x4 in most cases.

The epoxy supplier's literature will likely indicate a minimum spacing at a significantly reduced capacity, and a spacing at which you can use full capacity, and if you end up between those spacings for your design you can usually interpolate the reduction. So yes, you determine what spacing you...