My E04 alarm indicated that the float switch for the water level is low and will cause an alarm.
Try checking your water level and making sure it's high enough. Also maybe check the float switch in the chiller reservoir. It may be stuck on something and might need a little wiggle.
I normally punch all the small holes and features out first before getting to bigger cut outs. This avoids the possible auto-gap or nozzle crash on a piece of material that may have jumped back up once cut out. It really just depends on what you're cutting. Sometimes you may need to pick the...
If you're talking about the main airline going to the machine I would highly suggest getting that fixed ASAP. We just encountered oil in our airline for the first time and it caused a residue to build up on the focal lens during operation..... and the lens pretty much exploded. Cost us a pretty...
@jjl1210
I've always been curious as to how all those different cut conditions are implemented in the programs that cut the parts you guys use. Is there a constant change in power/duty/freq throughout the cuts, or does it use one as a constant and you just cycle through the 10 different...
So I have been having this sort of minor problem since we have purchased the machine. There is no way to precisely find "home" on a part with this machine that I am aware of. If I ever have to take something out and put it back in later to rework it we pretty much have to line everything up by...
I've also always found starting slow and working your way up to be the best bet. I run a 4kw Mazak U44-SG and overpowering the cuts seems to be quite common when I'm cutting anything that isn't => 3/8"
YOU JUST SAVED MY LIFE @STRIKER12300
I can't tell you how much time I've wasted looking for a solution to this problem and never finding an answer. Only to think I had to trace true lines and arcs over everything I do.
@lightl pretty sure you have to just manually draw over them because all the line and arc converters are wishywashy and don't work very well. Unless there's some other way that I've missed out on these past few years; I've been tracing over them all by hand to shorten the code so the laser...
I've had this problem with splines and laser cutting for a while now. The code would literally slow the machine down when the splines were converted to too little of a tolerance (aka .001 line extraction making miles worth of code to create a circle or arc).I would extract DXF in CorelDraw and...
I mean there is a way to document it (the adjustment "wrench" has numbers and lines on it that can sort of count the depth of the focus for you ex: 1 turn = +/-.040), but the problem is in that exactly. There is no way to really tell if that is actually .04 a turn until we do a blue flame test...
Man that sounds really nice. I wish they had some sort of Auto-Focus feature on the Mazak machine that we purchased, but I don't think the SG-U44 had the capability to do that. This thing just specializes in shredding through incredibly thick material really quickly. It's just that our shop...
So the books give us the old methods on finding the focal point for our Mazak U44 SpaceGear. It's pretty straightforward to say the least. You find the top of the focus by finding the blue flame on some stainless and getting an average of about 5 shots then do the same thing to find the bottom...
I have plenty of Z travel, but crafting plexi cutting grates sounds like they would get destroyed in a matter of seconds.
That is a pretty solid idea though. We might try something similar out.
Anyone got some input on this?
I'm waiting back on a call from Mazak currently about the probability of cutting this material, but I'm pretty sure I damaged the lens by cutting without any film on the material. Hopefully this isn't the case.
This sounds like a very easy operation that a low powered laser (or even a high powered one if they have any idea what they are doing) can accomplish. There are plenty of videos on youtube of this same feat being accomplished on both square and round tubing with very minimal spatter.
On the...
So I recently got a job quote for some nameplates that are .04" aluminum with a bronze and silver coating. I need to keep the surfaces pristine throughout the entire laser process.
My current setup is a Mazak U44 SG 4kw with a 50"x 50" table that has spiked slats going across spread out every 4...
Our mazak laser cuts tubing on a daily basis and the only way we have come to get rid of it is either by putting a bar on the inside of the tube to catch the spatter (which on aluminum there wont be much as it will mostly be easily knocked off with sandpaper), or we use a high grade of...
I have no problem throwing a bar in there for the pierce cycle (I always run full pre-pierce cycles due to the feathers left by them causing auto-gaps like crazy). We usually use a different bar for piercing than we do for cutting because of the actual power of the pierce and dwell time. I might...
We have been having the machine for a little over a year now and have been able to reach our machining capabilities for the most part. Most of our jobs consist of .375"-.380" thick stainless round tubing varying from 2.0" - 4.0" I.D. We have been having the same problem from day one and we have...
