I feel like all can be fixed in place. Replacing a truss is easier said than done. Measurements have to be extremely accurate along with all the other logistical issues. There is usually an interior wall that can be made to work for support if needed. I have specified replacement a few times but...
This is why I pass on these among other reasons. It probably used to work before the NDS dropped the design values and the GC's have not caught up yet.
I imagine it is not easy once it has been revoked. The only ones I have seen do work for others without permits are the truly bottom of the barrel ones whose life is a mess on all fronts.
I have seen a fair bit of my GC customers do work on their own house without permits, though.
I think many Archs. come up with a floor plan then figure out how to put a roof over it. Or, they are in competition with others to see how many hips, valleys and planes they can draw.
The only feedback I can offer is that I used a plastic grid system integrated into washed stone on my driveway (TruGrid) (was required to due to impervious surface regs.). Works pretty well except the edges are very vulnerable and if someone decides to do a burnout it would likely f' it up...
I occasionally get a request from the inspector to check the welds on steel. The best I can do is check for size and perceived quality. I tell them to get a certified weld inspector if they want more. I don't really lose sleep over the inspection process (at least for the light frame stuff I...
The nail gun may punch right thru it. An option I have used when they forget the ridge straps and don't want the flat area is to use a Simpson DTT1Z at at each rafter.
It is unusual around for a GC not to pull a permit as they will lose their license if caught. Plenty of non-licensed/homeowners do, however. Many get caught though from neighbor complaints. It also can come back and bite them when they go to sell the house as most real estate agents check for...
No way you are getting that to work in real life.. Even if it calcs out, you will eventually have a sag at the cant. and a hump in the middle of the floor. Ask me how I know :)
As KootK mentioned, I will use the upside down hangers at point loads. I am doing one now where I have a ridge load coming down. I used a cont. 9 1/4 LVL for the band and upside down hangers - except I put a dbl. joist under the ridge and used a right side up hanger to get the load into the rim...
I have never used PT for this. I don't think the hanger is needed unless the wall loads are hugmongous (which is unlikely if your cant. actually works) . Might want to block every other or third joist bay at the fdn. wall though.
Is it any worse than any other residential dropped beam? I have a lowered ceiling (not shown) on the left side flush with the bottom of the beam if needed to resolve the torsion. Just curious of other's thoughts w/o the ceiling.
