So a contractor I do work with from time to time called me out to look at something. The inspector failed his floor framing because he over-notched the joists due to an existing 2x4 ledger strip (dark colored wood) rather than the typical 2x2 strip (it's a renovation job). So now I'm trying to...
Yes, I guess my choice of words was wrong there. Generally I just mean that with thin metal and wide variety of construction quality I prefer screws. Welders can sometimes make a mess out of the simplest things......
I've always used screws. Welds are fine for the joists, but I get concerned about burning through 20 ga metal deck. If using 18 ga or thicker than screws or welds makes no difference for me.
Sounds like this is typical wood deck construction, in which case I think your ledger connection is just a pinned support. You would just need to calculate the shear capacity of the fasteners.
Not sure about residential code in California, but in my area this is a prescriptive detail from the...
Can you pack out the beam more by adding layers to the outside of what is there already, would have to cut around the bolts though. An maybe spec longer nails in the hanger to get back to the meat of the 2x material?
Or maybe have them switch out hangers for one that has a wider vertical leg...
Right. This code section however only explicitly addresses wood INSIDE the periphery of the building foundation, which this is not.
This is also not a deck/porch/other unconditioned area. So to me it is somewhat of a gray area.
Somehow it is working already adjacent to the area I am trying to extend, see pic.
I'm leaning towards using LVL joists at a tighter spacing than the 24" oc for the other areas.
Existing joists are 2x12 @ 24 (at the other bumpout sections I am trying to mimic). I can't get that size and spacing to work, which is always fun to explain to the owner and contractor.
Wall loads are not insignificant. The wall supports a 2nd level, walk-up attic, and roof. All center...
What about a continuous rim and blocking between the joists just inside the rim? Seems like that could alleviate some concern about point loads on sill plates that may or may not be continuous?
For a 2x4 stud wall above, how wide of a rim is too wide to consider some direct loading of the...
See sketch below. I have a situation where I'm trying to extend the interior space of a residential structure by cantilevering the ground level first floor joists (apprx 2' cantilever and 11' backspan). There are similar "bumpouts" to this on the home already, so the goal is to just make the...
Another option could be to export the data you are trying to review/analyze into excel and just convert the units as desired there. What's "easy" is just a matter of preference.
Typically I will neglect the knee braces when designing the beams for gravity loads as a conservative measure.............but like you, I have a hard time justifying neglecting the DL and Lr component of knee force that gets transferred to the columns/beams. If you are using the knee frames for...
The detail you are describing is another common one I see. It has a different aesthetic, which is why I suppose the detail from my OP gets used, but yours is much better structurally imho.
I've read some of the old threads, seems like many are against the slip connectors that are intended to relieve the thrust, the other option is a horizontally restrained connection (i.e. pin).
What's your concern at the corner? Perpendicular wall stopping the bearing walls from deflecting...
I think what @jayrod12 and @SinStrucEng are saying is to fasten the scissor trusses at each wall with a pinned connection, and checking the walls for additional stresses due to 1/4" of outward deflection from the thrust. This allows you to use the roof structure to brace the top of the walls...
