Search results for query: *

Hi Berkshire, The problem is that the solder does not wet the existing zinc coating well enough. After soldering the metal part sometimes separates from the solder when adequate force is applied. Removing the zinc to expose the steel is too time consuming. Thanks

Hi all, I looked into conductive epoxy and yes, its way too pricey for our application. Cleaning of the parts to expose the steel to make it solderable is too time consuming. We are ready to just make a fresh run of parts with the proper plating. I've looked into tin plating and there is a...

Hi all, I looked into conductive epoxy and yes, its way too pricey for our application. Cleaning of the parts to expose the steel to make it solderable is too time consuming. We are ready to just make a fresh run of parts with the proper plating. I've looked into tin plating and there is a...

Thanks Dik, I have contacted the company

Hi All, I was looking at the surface finish of the piece of zinc coated metal. I have one piece with a matte finish which solders fine, but the one with a more polished finish is the one which started this thread. Matte = solders OK, polished = solder does not stick as well. I did a quick...

Hi All, I was looking at the surface finish of the piece of zinc coated metal. I have one piece with a matte finish which solders fine, but the one with a more polished finish is the one which started this thread. Matte = solders OK, polished = solder does not stick as well. I did a quick...

Hi VE1BLL, I'm thinking of something along these lines: https://advancedplatingtech.com/electrolytic-plating/tin-plating-services/ Thanks

Waross- Thanks for that. Unfortunately the opening for the piece of metal is very tight to the actual part so manual tinning prior to inserting will not fit without precise control. Currently it is done by hand. All- I've also done some reading about tin plating. There seems to be shelf life...

VE1BLL, WAROSS- Do you mean push the metal through the PCBA, use acid core solder to make the connection, then clean off the surrounding area to remove the acid core solder from eating away any other electronic components? If so, what would I use to clean? I'm naive when it comes to soldering...

HI all, So it seems like I should just try to use some non-acid based soldering paste and see how that goes. I've also done some reading about tin plating. There seems to be shelf life on the solder-ability of tin. I know it varies based on thickness, substrate, etc but is the shelf-life...

itsmoked- will try, thanks racookpe1978- I have a slot in a PCB which I push the metal through. I then solder the metal (kinda encase the metal) to the board in order to get connectivity from the board to the other end of the metal. It serves as a mechanical hold, not ideal. Signal is then read...

Hi Swall, I have a slot in a PCB which I push the metal through. I then solder the metal (kinda encase the metal) to the board in order to get connectivity from the board to the other end of the metal. Signal is then read from the metal back to the PCBA. I know there are better ways to do this...

Hello, I have a piece of steel that is currently coated in zinc. I need to be able to solder to this piece of metal but zinc doesn't seem to be working well. Any suggestions on materials I can coat the steel in to make a good solder connection? Can be an industrial coating process. Thanks...

Hello, I have a piece of steel that is currently coated in zinc. I need to be able to solder to this piece of metal but zinc doesn't seem to be working well. Any suggestions on materials I can coat the steel in to make a good solder connection? Can be an industrial coating process. Thanks...

The silicone we are using is rbb-2881-40(40A). No compression set data available according to data sheet I did measure the gasket best I could pre- and post- temperature cycling and the measurements were pretty spot on, +/-.001" in vertical thickness. It doesn't seem like I'm getting...

Just wanted to give you guys a quick update. I found out I was given incorrect information regarding the original handle material. The HDT is actually 195C. Well above the 85C being tested. I've tested two materials, MRGF30/10 42H-NBK1 and PBT 3030-104. Looks like the handle materials are OK...

Tmoose, I didn't check how many turns exactly to re-tighten after heat cycling. I took my torque driver and re-tightened it to the 2.5 in-lbs I originally tightened it with. I have a few samples I didn't tighten yet, I'll check on that tomorrow. Everything is black on black so its hard to see...

Hi b, I had a bezel (flat piece with a hole cut out form the center and 4 smaller screw holes near each corner) made from the nylon which shows clear warping. I made the bezel out of the higher HDT material and did not see any clear warping. For the handle parts I did not see any clear warping...

Hi all, I did do a test using another material with a HDT of 200C. Spec. sheet attached. The same characteristics were shown: Pre-temp. cycle- no leak Post-temp. cycle- leak Post-temp cycle tightening- no leak With this material there should be minimal creep around the screws at 85C...

Thanks guys. This was a project I got thrown into. Parts were basically made and shown to fail, I was then tasked with fixing the problem. Both your inputs were extremely helpful and gives me a good starting point. Much appreciated.