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The nail gun may punch right thru it. An option I have used when they forget the ridge straps and don't want the flat area is to use a Simpson DTT1Z at at each rafter.

Well, time to raise my rates again :)

It is unusual around for a GC not to pull a permit as they will lose their license if caught. Plenty of non-licensed/homeowners do, however. Many get caught though from neighbor complaints. It also can come back and bite them when they go to sell the house as most real estate agents check for...

Are there existing dropped or flush beams across the bump outs that may be taking some load off?

That and not accurately representing grades on the elevations. Also, hearing, "This should be an easy one" Never it is!

No way you are getting that to work in real life.. Even if it calcs out, you will eventually have a sag at the cant. and a hump in the middle of the floor. Ask me how I know :)

As KootK mentioned, I will use the upside down hangers at point loads. I am doing one now where I have a ridge load coming down. I used a cont. 9 1/4 LVL for the band and upside down hangers - except I put a dbl. joist under the ridge and used a right side up hanger to get the load into the rim...

I have never used PT for this. I don't think the hanger is needed unless the wall loads are hugmongous (which is unlikely if your cant. actually works) . Might want to block every other or third joist bay at the fdn. wall though.

Makes sense.. Looks like I can make a W12x22 work (4" wide) and still far exceed code so I think I will go that route. Thanks for the insights.

Seems pretty stout for the existing span. Could be some old recycled beam.

Is it any worse than any other residential dropped beam? I have a lowered ceiling (not shown) on the left side flush with the bottom of the beam if needed to resolve the torsion. Just curious of other's thoughts w/o the ceiling.

Just calculate the section properties based on your measurements. It does not have to be perfect.

I don't see how it is any worse than the "withdrawal" direction

Simpson claims the Titen Turbo screws are for interior use only. Maybe could use the 410 stainless ones.

Never done it in-situ although my steel guy has done that for me. He uses what is called a reamer bit in his 1/2" hand drill. Drilled 4 holes in about 1/2" thick material in about 15 minutes. Not a contractor but have built 3 houses for myself that contained a fair bit of steel. It does take...

If you are trying to save money, they can be field drilled. Just need a nice drill, some good bits and oil. A Drill doctor is nice to use every 5 or so holes to sharpen up the bit. Start with 1/4"Ø and go to 3/8" and then 1/2" Time consuming but actually quite cathartic (for me anyway). I have...

Pick your poison I suppose. You could find a hanger for the beams so they are not embedded.

Why not make it all masonry and leave pockets for the beams?

Size them based on the horizontal shear in the beam

I have honestly never done this as every I-beam I have ever designed was serviceability controlled and not even close to yielding - especially now with 50ksi the norm.