Discovered opportunity to create dozen separate channels leading down to the 10" diameter tube all along it's 10' length,
and will play with restricting the size of those channel openings, more on the fan end than the closed end to achieve more
uniform draw into the tube all along its full...
Restricting airflow entering tube nearer the fan end, if more air from farther end desired,
might could be done upstream of the slot if it has to stay same width all along its length.
Assume a 10" diameter 10' long tube or pipe laying horizontally with a 2" wide slit all along its top side running it's full length.
One end is capped and the other has a fan drawing air into the pipe through this 2" slit all along its length.
Without changing the slit dimensions, is there...
btrueblood and MintJulep, I would solder or braze if I could, I know that's better,
but for cost restriction issues and a dozen other moving parts needing attention in
this project, I've had to compromise here and settle for less than best efficiencies.
Decided to give this a shot...
http://www.epoxies.com/_resources/common/userfiles/file/70-3812NC.pdf
Thermal Conductivity, W/m-°K 4.5
$100 for a quart w/ hardener
Compositepro, 'radiator' may have been poor word choice, it was used here in
the sense of a car radiator, conducting heat exchange between air and water.
It's not a radiator in the sense of radiant heat, reflectance or emissivty.
I'm only interested here in enhancing the conductive heat...
By "best" I mean, for this application, ideal for maximum galvanized to galvanized thermal conductivity where water passage may be an erosion issue.
I'd qualify it further to add that it needs to be readily commercially available and not exorbitant where only NASA can afford.
I'd assumed that...
Using some snap on radiators around galvanized tubes, as seen here...
Those radiators are also galvanized steel, same as the tubes, though
in that photo the tube looks to already be painted.
I need to maximize the thermal conductivity between the two surfaces.
Radiators don't easily...
"Let me clarify......... Suppose I'm out in the desert bringing in 100% outdoor air. 95 degrees, 5% RH"
Hot dry incoming, and you want to cool & raise humidity of it, I'd be looking at evaporative cooling as a first stage
and see how close that gets you, odds are AC will have much easier job...
I just now came up with 0.02192 ounces of condensate water per cubic foot by using this chart...
http://www.process-heating.com/ext/resources/PH/2001/05/Files/PDFs/0501PHhartzell-tables1and2.pdf
where I took the water content of 90F 80%RH air and subtracted water content of 40F 100%RH air.
Not...
I've been looking at one, think I need to figure out water content of 90F 80%RH air - 40F 100%RH air, and that would give me answer, working on that now.
LittleInch, Knew counter flow HX more efficient than parallel flow, but found this last sentence interesting here...
http://www.thermex.co.uk/news/blog/605-why-counter-flow-heat-exchangers-are-more-efficient
The diagram above shows a Shell and Tube Heat Exchanger. In the counter flow setup...
LittleInch,
Been thinking of doing something like that, pipe inside pipe counterflow heat exchanger.
I know it would be efficient and help, I'm just wondering if it'd be more effective than the greater surface area of the whole ceiling as originally proposed, I really don't know.
LittleInch, I'd thought about that earlier, still am some, like the counterflow efficiencies.
I was wondering, too, if there weren't cheap fins that could be wrapped around pipe to
increase surface area, too, like I've seen added onto on some wood stove flue pipes...
For lack of room, it'd...