I have a semi-complex assembly file that I would like to push into a thermoplastic sheet to make a loose mold. Is that something I can simulate in Solidworks?
Thanks much!
Thanks for all the thoughts, and the heads-up on the epoxy. The tape does seem a lot easier to deal. I'd still have to run it across the length of the heat sink just to insulate the pins from one another, but it'd be a very narrow strip.
Thanks again! This really clarified the best solution.
What do you guys think of this?
http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Thermally-Conductive-Encapsulating/dp/B008UH4CRM/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1452304295&sr=1-3&keywords=thermally+conductive+epoxy
itsmoked: Yes, I did read that, thanks much. I'm still confused honestly. Sil-pads all seem to be precut. Gap pads don't seem to fit the bill. Bond-ply would have too much additional adhesive collecting dirt. If you look at the image attached below, you'll see my ideal setup - achieved with a...
I'm keeping the LEDs so close together that I'm just soldering the legs together, bypassing trace or wire needs. I've thought about getting some MCPCBs made, but I thought I could get away with a DIY as it's just so basic. The only thing I need to solve is that isolation layer.
I'll look into...
Is there perhaps a spray on epoxy type material? Right now I'm using an epoxy that can handle heat for prototyping, but need some kind of fine layer (also thermally conductive) to electrically isolate the beads from the heat sink.
Yes, I'm using a voltage booster to get a constant current. But there does seem to be some range available, albiet a bit small, to adjust brightness.
Not a light saber! I've never even seen a Star Wars :)
Agreed, it wouldn't be ideal however I'm running them at the lowest possible voltage so they're not getting very warm and if it's relatively successful, I'll go from bar to vented. I'm still just prototyping.
Photo attached (although as mentioned, to get them closer together, I'm using a 6 pin...
Thanks for the tips guys. For clarification, these are the star less but without the star heat sinks as I need to pack them closer together. The perfect solution would be some thermal, elec isolating tape that I can then use a ther a adhesive on top of and between the chip LED and tape. Is that...
I should even call it a PCB, it's just a bar of aluminum really. I need to put down a dozen or so 3w leds and I'd like to set them on to the bar directly. Is there a non-conductive thermal tape I can use? There is some continuity between one of the pins and the base, so I need to separate it...
Hi guys,
Is there a formula for calculating the optimum amount of power for X gauge wire and X number of turns? I'm curious if there's a better method than my method of wildly guessing.
dgallup: Well, I think your air gap solved it for me! I'm using 100 microns (1x sheet of paper) and I'm getting everything I've been searching for! And I don't feel like I've sacrificed anything.
I'd still like to test the LC resonance djhurayt recommended, however I got lost in the...
djhurayt:
Thanks for the annealing - I'll list that as an experiment down the road if I must.
Regarding the referenced thread, thanks!! I'll try the non-polarized cap today!
Thanks for all the ideas guys. So is it the carbon that retains the residual magnetism?
For annealing, does that have to be in an oven or can I torch anneal it?
djhurayt: to answer your question - I think it does given the application. I need a really fast pick up of the door as it comes in at...
Hi all
I'm not well versed in electromagnetics but I'm learning as I'm prototyping this product.
Essentially developing a C shaped, DC, electromagnet to hold down a steel door on the order of about 8 sq. inches, and to release it when power is pulled. My current steel core is getting...
