the drop of pressure over a period of time would be a good way to describe a leak ,say 50psi/60 minutes. thing to keep in mind is everything leaks, it's just a matter of how much time does it take to see the leakage. to most people it's a pass/fail test or leak/no leak but that isn't really true
most all of my experience has been with the KB DMS and DMS+, with that said from what i've seen you would never pick up the lining material if the meter is set up correctly. i can't begin to think of doing UT testing without A scan on the meter, but i know lot of people do it.
we're working on a design for a device that will operate at or below 10 psi with a diameter of less than 24" and a total height of less than 6". the thinking right now is we'll use flat stainless plate for the ends and rolled plate for the side and it'd be welded construction. we are wanting to...
hello and thanks for looking, my newest project involves a stepper motor (15in/lbs torque) driving a shaft with 2 u joints to a power transmission feed through then to another shaft with 2 u joints and finially to a fixed shaft with a bevel gear driving another shaft and sprocket with a bevel...
if it's at the end of the electrod designation it would indicate special or additives to the flux coating or alloy such as e7018x or 308L. it'd be best to check with your eletrode maker or supplier.
depending on the size of the tank purging with argon or other inert gas is an option. another sucessful "back woods" method would be to use a hose and run a line frmo the exhust of a car/truck into the tank. i've made or been involved in repars on many fuel/oil tanks with these methods...
