Crane works, at least to build a model and correlate to changes from what you've tested. Even works for rocket engines and LOX. Every contraction/expansion makes a contribution too. I am a valve designer, and use the K value method all the time...with success, usually ;)
Bucket and stopwatch...
I don't think you can "over-dry" nylon. Just do realize that after printing, you need to either let the part equilibrate to normal humidty levels, or force it to re-hydrate by soaking in water.
Or surf over to the manufacturer's website and look for data. Like this:
https://www.titus-hvac.com/file/1162/esvHWC_singledual_2023_V2.pdf
which shows tables of flow vs. pressure drop for various sizes of coils.
That was found at the page for your Titus DESV-06, under the "Performance" tab...
Intersting you want nylon 11. It is a fact that it's much more hygroscopic than nylon 12, i.e. it would be more problematic to 3d print in a humid environment.
I think the toughest part of 3d printing with nylon would be ensuring that the filament is utterly, perfectly dried prior to printing, and then trying to maintain it dry as the print progresses. Wet nylon foams and becomes very brittle if heated past its glass transition point and into the...
I grew up driving a variety of vehicles in wet slushy snow conditions typical of the Pacific Northwest hilly and mountain areas. All of our cars and trucks had chains, and we learned how to put them on at a young age. Some people ran studs...but they had to chain up for the mountain passes...
What LittleInch said. I mean, there are hand calculations described in Roark's for toroids and sigma joints, from which you might derive spring constants...but that assumes your bellows shells are near enough to semi-toroids to avoid inaccuracies. Seems like it would be far easier to stick the...
You are talking about 3d printer (fused filament) polymers, I gather from the brand names mentioned.
Most nylons do need to be water conditioned after melting - easy enough to do by just soaking in warm water overnight.
I've always thought polypropylene makes the best living hinges (the act of...
I can point you at some Class 1 stuff that is more economical than others, but not Class 2 (dust) environment stuff. But yeah, pneumatics are a cheaper option for a fairly low-force actuator (given the already sunk cost of the air compressor).
"Won't it be cheaper to design WT blades to be assembled from 2 or 3 sections in the field?"
LOL, killed the idea in one sentence. Stiffness "jump" at the joining flange is a problem for aeroelasticity, yes, but so are engine mount, flap and aileron segments on aircraft wings - i.e. a solvable...
Some thoughts, having done this type of testing innumberable times:
If you don't add some type of damper in the input line, or air space in the device under test, you will likely overshoot the peak pressure using a positive displacement pump.
You need a check valve after the pump (the check...
I agree with Greg, it sounds and looks like you are modelling motor speed (rpm), given the rounded overshoot (vs. the spike of an inductive kickback). Why no undershoot - probably because you are not modelling friction (both coulomb and viscous) in the motor bearings, and/or have a model that...
Dunno - some reason the S355JR material wouldn't work (it sounds like it's just a mild steel) for the class of flange you want?
If they did all the testing required for SA350, then sure - the material needs to meet requirements of ASTM A961 per the A350 standard, which controls heat treatment...
What exactly is the "response" plotted on the y-axis? Input current to the motor? Motor rpm? What device is used to measure that (transducer?). What does the model measure? Can you show a schematic of the wiring and the mechanical setup?
Ed has good advice - your materials may vary from what we get, your best answer is to order some and test it. We've "perfected" a seal test for our valve seals. Simple rig with a thermostat and heater (sometimes a cooler), pumped loop, valve cycling on/off 24-7, and safety pressure switch for...