Several days ago I connected the new motor on the bench with no load of course. I get similar start up current and running it draws about 4.3A.
Whatever/however the start/run winding relationship, it appears to work just fine! I plan on playing with the old motor after it's replaced.
Bill
Just did a load, started right up but wouldn't restart when hot which is the problem. It gets around 200F which I've read is normal, maybe not for this motor which has no case. The new motor has a added fan.
Bill
I forgot to add, on the new motor, the connections for the windings are external, although both are on one pin of the overload switch.
The new motor's centrifugal switch has three different sizes of quick disconnects, 1/8", 3/16" and 1/4" just to make it more confusing! They supply two...
Are you refering to running with the start winding only? What I meant was, when the motor is first started or the centrifugal contact is closed both winding are in parallel, so any current measured is from both. I can disconnect each winding at the switch but the other is buried inside the...
Checked the switch while moving the rotor shaft, no problem there!
From what I've read only the split-phase induction motors have smaller wire for the start winding. The capacitor start motors have the same size wire for both windings.
One of the drawbacks to this type of motor is the high...
ccjersey:
Nope, the switch is good, possible bearings as it does require effort to turn by hand after sitting but after sitting is usually when it starts. No capacitor start here. It gets plenty warm too, 180-200F but I read that they can get that hot.
I was reading something today that...
Working on a starting problem with a split phase induction start motor in a dryer. Couldn't find any info on how much the difference in resistance should be between the start and run winding. From what I read the start winding uses smaller wire therefore higher resistance causing a phase shift...
