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Look at Micro Measurements. Years ago they sent me a very comprehensive binder of their gauges and tutorials on strain gauges.

Do you need to accurately hold the sheet metal pieces together during rotation? If so then you'll probably need at least one bearing. Does the center bolt need preload only to keep the nut from falling off? If so then a shoulder bolt and nut would probably be enough.

Did you watch the assembly or do it yourself? Perhaps something was off and a lot of stress induced during the assembly.

I think you want a notch filter. Piezos are generally good at high frequencies (high output) and not so good at low frequencies (low output). I don't think you want to build a notch filter with them. Are you looking to filter a "drive signal" for a test rig? When I did this kind of stuff...

I assume there's a flexible coupling between motor and gear box?

What minimum and maximum pressures for the tank are you dealing with?

Spherical mounts for two or three of the actuators and piston rods may help.

Thought of another one I've messed up before: Are using a ground plane on the PCB? If so, you don't have AC low connected to DC low, correct?

A lot of work but... build half the circuit on the PCB and the other half in the breadboard. Add/subtract the components to each until you get what you want. That will at least isolate what section of the circuit isn't working as expected on the PCB.

Just FYI, McMaster sells angle brackets. They have large filleted radii (no welds). They are also cast iron (damps well) https://www.mcmaster.com/products/angle-plates/angle-plates-2~/ Bob

Only kind of related - you'd generally want to mount the specimen the same as real life. Looks like yours may be glued on? That will change the frequency response.

With turning you can usually use the same tool for OD turning and facing. Also, if you have a tool changer on your lathe you can bring in different tools (like a grooving tool for narrow grooves). You don't have to true or dress a turning tool (though you might have to replace it when worn)...

Backlash in the connection would be important I'd think. The only one of the three I've used are the ball locking pins - I wouldn't count on those if you need a pre-loaded joint.

MJ's proposal looks nice - I only question the amount of preload you can get on the bolt.

How are you distinguishing "moments" from "Torque"? In the first figure the shackle will rotate (as SWComposites says) until there is zero torque on the bolt axis. There will be a moment on the red base though.

There are "mill cutting force calculators" online that would help you pick a minimum thickness.

Is there an internal or external pressure in the part?

By "cycling" do you mean it seems to come and go at a certain frequency? If so then I'd guess you have a beat frequency.

I addition to the above your options would include torsionally soft or stiff. I haven't built a generator/engine machine so I can't tell you how they are normally done.

Back when I was working, companies often hired contract workers for drafting jobs.