Actuated valve for Drain line

[Golestan]

Hi,
I need to use an actuated valve on a sewer line (2 in. dia.). I want to drain when signal applied and closed when there is no signal. The water is coming from a car-wash operation. What should I look for in selection of valve and who are the manufacturers?

Thanks,

 

[Golestan]

I am surprised no one has replied to my question yet!
This is a car wash drain line that I need to cycle the valve off and on to let it drain on to the main line.

Who are some of the manufacturers?

Thanks,

 

[itdepends]

You might be better off posting in the Valve Engineering forum.

Cheers

 

[kchayfie]

I'm not seeing anything particularly challenging about your operation. I expect there are hundreds of suppliers that can help you. Have you tried googling for valve suppliers in your local area? We get a lot of valves from Invicta valves in the UK, sometimes we use George Fischer. I'm sure there are others but I'm not in the purchasing department so I can't really remember names of any of the other suppliers but I know there are a lot.

The main thing to worry about from what you have told us is to ensure that the actuator is capable of operating at the frequency you need it to. Some are limited to x number of starts per minute/hour/etc so if you are cycling your valve a lot, make sure your actuator is suitable.

 

[PEDARRIN2]

You need to describe your system a little more.

I am wondering why you want a valve on the sanitary piping.

Is the flow by gravity or is it pumped? You said it was a 2" line which seems to indicate it is pumped. Most plumbing codes I am familiar with would not allow a 2" gravity pipe.

If it is pumped, then there is probably a tank. If so, I would not use a valve to control flow. I would use level controls to control the pump.

 

[gerhardl]

If sand and oil:

a) Knifegate valve
b) Gatevalve, resilient seated
c) 'Saunders type'
d) 'Pinchvalve'.

NBR or other oil resistant sealing material required.

Choice a), knifegate, air operated (carwash = pressurised air available?) is in my opinion best/cheapest.

 

[Golestan]

Thank you guys for your replies.
-The valve will cycle about every 2 minutes.
-The reason for the valve is that we want to close off drain for a short period about 2 minutes then allow gravity drain.
-My concern for the valve type is the dirty water handling feature. Possible small amounts of sand and oil that would drip off the bottom of a car during the rinse cycle- not the wash cycle. The wash cycle drain is handled by a separate system.
Regards,

 

[PEDARRIN2]

I am still not sure why you need a valve and not just drain by gravity.

Are you wanting to hold the flow back for some reason?

If you are worried about sand and/or oil, put in an interceptor to allow the sand to settle and the oil to float. Then you can discharge by gravity.

 

[gerhardl]

Golestan:

Your idea is generally good, but 2 minutes may be too little time to allow the separation you are aiming for (but anything helps).

Check for local restrictions for outlet, general arrangement and system requirements and more advanced separation systems commercially available for your branch.

The valve suggested, though, will work. Keep it greased with waterproof and oilproof grease, dont mount it with knife clamped too tight, and allow for some operational time to open and close (observation at location).

 

[bimr]

Putting valves in a sanitary sewer is generally not a very good idea. The valves will plug up with solids and not work when you want them to.

You would probably be better off using a sump pump for this application instead of a valve.