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Any detrimental consequences of cutting LVL's in half longitudinally? 3

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Ingenuity

Structural
May 17, 2001
2,349
I have an opportunity to purchase a bunch of new (unused but discontinued stock) LVL lumber for an upcoming concrete wall formwork project, however, the depth of the LVL's is significant deeper than I require (1-3/4"t x 9-1/2" w and 1-3/4"t x 11-7/8"w).

Is there any consequences of ripping the 9-1/2" and 11-7/8" down the guts to make 2@4"+ and 2@5.5"+ LVL's? Besides the obvious of reduced structural section properties!

I will apply a protective paint to the cuts to protect the glue lines.

I would not usually entertain cutting such lumber in such a fashion, but the price is cheaper that purchasing twice the quantity at half the depth.

 
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Nothing scary comes to mind for me. It's SCL so obviously you don't have to worry about winding up with knots at free edges etc. I'd want the cuts to be done fairly cleanly so as not to introduce stress concentrations in the potential tension faces of the new members. That should be pretty hard to screw up though.

If this is a solid, get rich quick investment, I want a cut!

I like to debate structural engineering theory -- a lot. If I challenge you on something, know that I'm doing so because I respect your opinion enough to either change it or adopt it.
 
I spec this all the time without incident
 
This is very common. Ripping lvls to fit in odd areas is something I spec regularly
 
I wouldn't have even thought about the protective paint. Is that common? What are the consequences of not doing it? Exterior applications only?

I like to debate structural engineering theory -- a lot. If I challenge you on something, know that I'm doing so because I respect your opinion enough to either change it or adopt it.
 
LVL's generally can be ripped. Weyerhaeuser has a technical bulletin on their website confirming their opinion.
 
It is pretty common

When I am working on a problem, I never think about beauty but when I have finished, if the solution is not beautiful, I know it is wrong.

-R. Buckminster Fuller
 
Only thing I would caution is ripping at lot of LVLs will probably chew through a few saw blades as the glue tends to be fairly hard to go through. Though it might have been that PSLs are the bad ones and LVLs rip easier. We had a contractor rip a few PSL and LVL balloon framing posts to match dimension lumber thicknesses and he said it was a real pain to do.

Maine Professional and Structural Engineer.
(Just passed the 16-hour SE exam, woohoo!)
 
I thought it depends on the spec of the LVL, since some of them have stronger laminates at the top/bottom for bending, so cutting them may be detrimental to the bending stress of the lumber, of course, unless this is made with a single wood type/family, someone correct me if I am wrong or this i'm talking about only pertains to GLULAMS
 
My experience with LVL is it is a uniform strength across the entire cross section. Same for PSL and the old LSL. Glulam beams however quite often have different grade lumber for the outer plys to maximum economy
 
Thank you all, great information.

KootK said:
I wouldn't have even thought about the protective paint. Is that common? What are the consequences of not doing it? Exterior applications only?

A protective coating is factory-applied to LVL in concrete formwork applications to increase their durability on all 6 edges due to the typically exterior exposure. I do not have access to the coating system, but I have lots of clear-coat epoxy resin that I am going to trial as a protective coat.

sponton said:
...only pertains to GLULAMS

Yes, I think this is only for GLUlams.
 
You will need a good table saw if this is for yourself. I cut them with a 5 hp slider. A skilsaw does work if it is a heavy duty version, but it is tedious.
 
Canuck67 said:
LVL's generally can be ripped. Weyerhaeuser has a technical bulletin on their website confirming their opinion.

Thanks, Canuck67...any chance you have a link to such a document?

I could not find it here: Link
 
Brad805 said:
You will need a good table saw if this is for yourself. I cut them with a 5 hp slider. A skilsaw does work if it is a heavy duty version, but it is tedious.

Thank you, Brad805
 
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