Brick paver detail for city streetscape 1

[Polyhedron]

I am looking for information regarding details for installing unit pavers within a public sidewalk. Our city standard has been to install a 4" concrete base followed by a 1" sand setting bed and then the brick paver. In cases where the pavers are installed in a utility strip, the 4" concrete become a lean or low stregth material that can be easily removed for utility work. These details/standards have been a major point of debate by some residents wishing to upgrade their streetscape. They along with some paver manufacturers are advocating omitting the concrete base and strictly using a compacted sand or granular base. I'm not sure if this is a good idea for use in a public right of way. Does anyone have an opinion regarding this issue?

 

[cvg]

if you omit the concrete, you will want to make sure you get very good compaction, otherwise you may have differential settlement causing an uneven sidewalk. This will increase the cities liability for trips and falls. This may become a risk management decision.

 

[GeoPaveTraffic]

In addition to the risk managment issue, you should plan on higher maintainence costs if you omit the concrete.

 

[sam74]

If you want to try to alter your city standards (depending on your climate) maybe check out an option called street print at

http://www.streetprint.com.

This is an asphalt based product that can mimic brick pavers without some of the hangups. It is ADA compliant, waterproof, lower in construction cost, and is easily repairable without noticeable differences. If you think you might be interested be sure and ask a rep about maintenance cost for aesthetic purposes (probably not a problem if pedestrian traffic is all that is expected). If your climate is asphalt friendly this might be a good option to introduce your city to.

 

[Prepakt1]

Pavers need drainage below. If you use only concrete the sand will wash out

 

[dicksewerrat]

We used a brick like paver for city sidewalk. they were made in a factory in Nicollet, MN. We used a 4 inch crushed concrete base compacted with a small asphalt roller. then installed the pavers and spread sand/cement mix on top. Broomed the mix in and washed the pavers. !0 years later, no differential settlement. If you put the lean concrete in it may not drain well enough.

 

[jheidt2543]

Landscape designers and architects love to specify brick pavers for walkways and patios. Even our city engineering department has installed pavers in various locations around the city and, they do look nice - for awhile.

In our northern midwest climate, the winter frost heave and snow removal plays havoc with the pavers. The pavers lasted about five years as insets in the city sidewalks, then they were taken out. They required too much maintanence.

I like the looks too, but you have to realize that in the northern climates they require a lot of work to keep them looking good, particularly in public spaces.

 

[jrpeck]

I work for an Architech. I have designed 30 years worth of sites. I have had so little luck using the details that are supplied by the paver manufactures, that I refuse to ever put pavers on anything but a concrete base. The exception might be a residential application, and then it would depend on the underlying soil type. Several years ago, at the insistance of the client, we did a job for the city that required us to lay pavers for several blocks, over a DGA base with a sand leveling course. About 1 year later it sagged and 10 yrs later it is a mainanence problem. We have not got another job from the city since.

 

[DRC1]

Paver are often set on a bed of compacted stone dust. With a little water and a plate compacter, it will get very hard.

 

[bmoc]

I have used both methods, concrete base and 2NS sand base in Michigan. Lately, we have done quite a few projects using colored stamped concrete. Much cheaper. Color stains can penetrate 1/4". Lots of resources on the web. You could use an expansion joint along your utility trench.