Can anyone tell me how to remove this object from my motor shaft? 3

[Jpn5]

Hi everyone,

As the title says can anyone give me a hint as to how I can remove this stainless bush? from my gearbox?

I bought the motor & gearbox for a project and would like to mount a pulley to the shaft instead of what's already on there.

Thanks in advance!

 

[BrianE22]

Looks a bit corroded. Apply some penetrant and use a gear (or "jaw") puller. Some heat might help.

If it still won't come off bring it to a machine shop and have them mill most of the coupling off. That may weaken it enough so that you can pull it off.

 

[Jpn5]

Thanks for the response Brian - I've sprayed on some penetrant and I'm off to get myself a gear puller this afternoon...

Hopefully I can get rid of it without incurring any additional cost.

Do you think that the central, bevelled steal piece seen in the photos is the end of the shaft? Or is that something that will also need to be removed? - It looks like it has an 8mm thread down the centre.

 

[desertfox]

Hi Jpn5

You could try heating the coupling so it expands after you have loosened the fixings off and see if it can be prised off the shaft.

Regards

desertfox

 

[MikeHalloran]

Remove the setscrews.

Pack the setscrew holes with grease.
Reinstall the setscrews and tigthen (against the grease).
Really, really tight...

Then remove the setscrews again and use the puller.

Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA

 

[dvd]

That motor probably was not made for use with a pulley, or other overhung load. Do not be surprised when the front bearing fails. Bearing life will depend on the belt tension.

 

[MikeHalloran]

A caution about using a puller: Put a hard washer under the screw point so you don't accidentally upset the shaft OD.



Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA

 

[BrianE22]

While under tension with the puller, tap the coupling with a metal hammer to set up a vibration.

If you can lock the shaft (worm gear reducer?) then try a pipe wrench on the OD of the coupling to apply some torque back and forth to try to get it to loosen.

 

[gearcutter]

If you don't have access to a proper pulley/bearing puller; you could tap the three holes using a fine pitch and then with three bolts, a drilled plate and some packers/spacers you could then pull the coupling from the shaft.

Ron Volmershausen
Brunkerville Engineering
Newcastle Australia

http://www.aussieweb.com.au/email.aspx?id=1194181

 

[Jpn5]

Thanks to everyone for you help on this.

I'm pleased to report that I've got the little blighter off! I used a combination of penetrative spray, grease down the screw holds, a little heat, and a gear puller.

That motor probably was not made for use with a pulley, or other overhung load. Do not be surprised when the front bearing fails. Bearing life will depend on the belt tension.

I was planning to use this motor to drive a relatively small rotocaster, running around 15rpm ... are you saying that I would be better setting it up direct drive rather than belt/chain?

Out of interest: the motor and gearbox was previously used in a pharmaceuticals factory where it rotated a large tablet hopper.

 

[Ross0684]

Jpn5
For your information, this "brand" of motorised gearbox (Bonfiglioli, STI,etc) are made in Italy, and have a hollow output arrangement.
If you remove the bolt on the opposite side to the bush, you should be able to remove the whole shaft from the output, which make it free for you to do what ever you desire for your new usage.
Check the shaft diameter as they tend to have some strange sizes (28 mm, etc)
Ross

 

[tbuelna]

Remove the setscrews.Pack the setscrew holes with grease.
Reinstall the setscrews and tigthen (against the grease). Really, really tight...

That's actually quite a clever idea! It is similar to the "hydraulic" method used to install/remove driveshaft couplings on very large power transmission equipment. Nice call.

 

[Tmoose]

Grease in the setscrew over the key would probably just make a mess.

Prying off hubs etc with the fulcrum bearing against the motor housing puts an axial load on the motor bearing. I wouldn't pry very hard.

As others said The drive end bearing correct for direct coupling is not meant for the heavy radial load possible (likely) with belt drive. Conversely the bearing that will tolerate a large side load ( often a cylindrical roller ) may not have the minimum radial load necessary to prevent roller skidding if run in a direct drive application like the gearbox.
I tried to zoom in to see if the motor bearings are listed on the name plate.

 

[chicopee]

If that collar has no value, use a hand grinder with a cutting wheel; be careful when you get close to the shaft.