As Mike noted... but, I prefer to have a 6" granular 'buffer' between the slab and the footing... else, the footing edge can 'telegraph' through the slab.
My point was...if the footing is at slab level, it forms part of the slab on ground. I assume that the slab on ground has joints. If these joints are dowelled, use the same dowelled arrangement for the footing/slab joint. If not dowelled but just sawcut, I would provide a ledge on the footing for the slab to sit on. Or, as the other gents suggested, drop the footing, run your granular subbbase over the footing, and cast your slab on that. Depends totally on the usage of the building as to which solution I would use.
Practicing in the midwest, on non-expansive soils, we would run the slab over the footing and place a 1/2-inch control joint between the slab and the wall. The slab will cantilever and tolerate some footing settlement. if settlement is too large, the slab will crack anyway.
If the slab meets the footing as you have shown, a small amount of footing settlement causes an offset that will affect the floor covering. If you dowel them together, footing settlement will crack the slab or rotate the footing.
Another benefit of placing the footing below the slab is that a perimeter drain laid on top of the footing will have its flowlne below the top of slab level, reducing the chanace that water will come in. Building on clays, any time the exterior grade is higher than the floor level, there is a chance of water entering, and a perimeter drain is needed.
It is really impossible to generalize without knowing the usage of the building and the ground conditions. With post-tensioned slab on ground construction, it is common to cast and stress the slab first, then excavate and build the footing with its top at the same level as the slab.