Continuation of Sacrificial Anode discussion...

[sistersparky]

Hi, I know a similar question was raised further down the list but the thread has been closed, so here we go...

I am restoring a 70's beast & I'm wondering about using a 95% zinc spray ("cold galvanizing") to shoot INSIDE frame members (where I can't possibly prime & paint effectively -- or does someone REALLY have solutions for everything? ;D)

The spray is relatively cheap, $10 a pop. I figure it's worth a try, but the previous thread raised some questions in my head.

My understanding of sacrificial anodes (though my chemistry is admittedly rusty) was that it would protect a fair amount of surrounding metal as well... not JUST the touching parts. Just how localized is the protection offered, and will I really just be concentrating a rust attack in areas I can't spray at all?

 

[patprimmer]

Drill access holes in non visual areas, spray with an excess of deodorised fish oil, then drain off excess as much as possible with strategically placed drain holes. It works better if the car is stripped down to basic bare body structure and is mounted on a rotating device like a spit. so you can use gravity to assist over a full 360 deg around the longitudinal axis. When thoroughly coated, drained and dry, plug holes with rubber grommets.



Regards

eng-tips, by professional engineers for professional engineers
Please see FAQ731-376 for tips on how to make the best use of Eng-Tips Fora.

 

[Peter7307]

Another vote for the fish oil. It will wick it's way to the metal via capilliary action through the most minute of cracks.

One warning: even the "neutralised' or "low odour" stuff reeks so do this well away from the house and have a separate set of clothing just for this exercise.

Oh yeah , you may find you were unaware of just how many cats are in the locality before you began using the stuff. !

Good luck , Pete.