silasdooley
Electrical
- Oct 12, 2015
- 2
Looking for practical feedback.
I live in a part of the country where folks are using epoxied dowels despite some engineers wanting them tied in the strip footing on first pour. As owner-builder I am agnostic really when it comes to either method.
However, as owner-builder mine got put in with epoxy with no pull test. The inspector here does not require a pull test. Nor do they even check the dowels.
Background info:
The retaining wall is 8" CMU which is the back wall of the house. It is a 4' tall wall from the top of the slab. About two courses of CMU are below that. No more than 4' of backfill is allowed. There is 8" of gravel under the 4" slab with fiber. There is no basement which makes the retaining wall, again, the back wall of the structure.
Specs on retaining wall:
CONT 2'-8" WIDE x 12" FOOTING w/ 3 - #4 CONT TOP BARS & #4 TOP
TRANSVERSE BARS @ 16" O.C. RETAINING WALL: 8" CMU w #4 DOWELS @ 16" O.C. (2" FROM OUTSIDE FACE), BOND BEAM w/ #4 CONT BAR IN TOP COURSE
Question, with no pull test how risky is this? A scale from 1-10 might be helpful. 9-10 being don't live in it! Oof.
My plan for detailing this is to have adequate drainage with a 4" pipe at footing with sealed CMU and a drain dimple board or similar. So the hydrostatic pressure will hopefully be minimal. I also have clay soil but with some silty composition. Seems to drain fine from experience living here 7+ years. The slope is terraced behind the wall (with another 4" drain pipe planned at that second higher location) and rises another 10-15 feet from the top of the wall. Length of the slope from the wall to the top is about 20 feet more or less. Lastly, there is a moderately used rural road at the top which is paved as surcharge etc.
Appreciate any feedback.
And how much sleep should I be losing?
Thanks
I live in a part of the country where folks are using epoxied dowels despite some engineers wanting them tied in the strip footing on first pour. As owner-builder I am agnostic really when it comes to either method.
However, as owner-builder mine got put in with epoxy with no pull test. The inspector here does not require a pull test. Nor do they even check the dowels.
Background info:
The retaining wall is 8" CMU which is the back wall of the house. It is a 4' tall wall from the top of the slab. About two courses of CMU are below that. No more than 4' of backfill is allowed. There is 8" of gravel under the 4" slab with fiber. There is no basement which makes the retaining wall, again, the back wall of the structure.
Specs on retaining wall:
CONT 2'-8" WIDE x 12" FOOTING w/ 3 - #4 CONT TOP BARS & #4 TOP
TRANSVERSE BARS @ 16" O.C. RETAINING WALL: 8" CMU w #4 DOWELS @ 16" O.C. (2" FROM OUTSIDE FACE), BOND BEAM w/ #4 CONT BAR IN TOP COURSE
Question, with no pull test how risky is this? A scale from 1-10 might be helpful. 9-10 being don't live in it! Oof.
My plan for detailing this is to have adequate drainage with a 4" pipe at footing with sealed CMU and a drain dimple board or similar. So the hydrostatic pressure will hopefully be minimal. I also have clay soil but with some silty composition. Seems to drain fine from experience living here 7+ years. The slope is terraced behind the wall (with another 4" drain pipe planned at that second higher location) and rises another 10-15 feet from the top of the wall. Length of the slope from the wall to the top is about 20 feet more or less. Lastly, there is a moderately used rural road at the top which is paved as surcharge etc.
Appreciate any feedback.
And how much sleep should I be losing?
Thanks
