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Electric motor winding stripping/cutting 1

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The switch system would not be allowed under the safety codes that I work under. Tools must be controlled by a trigger with NO trigger lock. That on-off switch won't meet codes.

Bill
--------------------
"Why not the best?"
Jimmy Carter
 
Safety nuts gone nuts again.

All of those bone saw derived tools that I have examined come with an on-off switch, not a trigger switch.

Which I don't see as a hazard because they won't cut flesh unless they are equipped with a knife blade. The saw teeth just oscillate rapidly about a mm or so.

A trigger switch would be very tiring, because they don't cut real fast. It's easy to load up the teeth or burn them if you don't rock the blade to distribute the work. ... which again would be made more difficult by having to maintain pressure on a trigger.

Making a nice straight cut as shown in the demo requires a very steady hand, and a lot more practice than I've been able to get so far.

I have not tried to cut a winding or anything similar. It's certainly worth a try in private, but I'd expect some difficulty cutting magnet wire mid-span because the saw teeth _may_ just grab the wires and wiggle them back and forth instead of cutting chips. Cutting close to the laminations would keep the wires from moving much, but you'd need a super-fine tooth blade, and those don't work real well with copper because they clog easily and copper is sticky.

You might be better off with air-assisted diagonal cutters, with a trigger valve of course.





Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA
 
Hello elinBG,

Best way is use a "cutter -Puller" this is an special machine intended to do two main actions: Cut the winding head and remove by pulling the burned winding. Is vertical type, the stator is attached to table (operator see connection side) and one arm with saw end is placed inside of stator, then the operator cut the winding head. Once you finish this action the stator is turned and you can attach some chain fixture to each coil group or individual coils and pull it outside.

Winding dismantling could be more easy if you have a burnoff oven.


Please see attachment.

Regards


Carlos



 
 http://files.engineering.com/getfile.aspx?folder=db981eb0-e9b9-4ab8-a084-eb847f7dedd6&file=Cutting_and_Puller.pdf
Thank you, MikeHalloran for your complete answer!

So I will have to wait and find somebody who already bought multi-cutter and ask him to try with a real motor.
 
Good info from Carlos, also.

=====================================
(2B)+(2B)' ?
 
Consider buying your own.

I bought a Cordless Nextec multi-cutter from Sears.
I think it was on sale for $50. You can pay a lot more.
You can pay less, too; Harbor Freight has a corded model that's cheap enough to be disposable.

I sort of bought it on speculation, figuring I might need it someday.
Now I hate to travel without it; appropriate tasks just sort of keep appearing.


Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA
 
Thank you for your answers and to Carlos for the info about "cutter-Puller" machine!

I have found it before but however this machine is very expensive compared to the "multicutter" and compared to bulgarian standards. For a job which we currently do without it.
 
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