Erosion Control of Shore Line Recommendation 2

[boo1]

In a Florida community, common property is bay front. Bank erosion is taking place, where some of residents removed natural salt myrtles and grasses to improve their water front view. Centipede grass is planted to the bank edge. The root structure of the Centipede grass is not holding the soil together. The bank is three feet is height, storm erosion is threatening a retension pond. The community association is studying installing an aluminum bulkhead to stabilize the bank, which cost will be divided though the community. Road access is within 100 feet. The water depth is very shallow.

Are grout filled textiles mats a more cost effective solution? Anyone have any web links of cost analysis erosion control studies or recommendations?

 

[Prepakt1]

Grout mats will work just fine, provided you do not have very large wave heights.If the wave action is heavy you need to use large grout bags which are more stable.How cost effective depends on the situation and location .You can also get the bags and mats in different colours so the visual impact is minimised.
There are some pics on our web site

http://www.marineconcrete.com

Intrusion Prepakt. B.C. Canada

http://www.marineconcrete.com

 

[cvg]

there are other options also with different costs, effectiveness and visual appeal - here is a partial list:

dumped rock
gabions
wood piles
concrete retaining wall
shotcrete slope protection
concrete blocks
concrete blocks tied with cables

 

[TerraSouth]

Most Marine contractors will need to get their barge close to the bank to work. If the water is too shallow then the work will have to be done land side. You don't want land side if at all possible. In your situation trying to get ALL the work done from the water is important, less wear and tear on the roads, lawns etc. Most Marine contractors prefer to work from the water.

An aluminum bulk heads sounds reasonable to me. Call Dave Hill at Ravens Aluminum in Orlando. Great folks!

http://www.ravensmarine.com/

With only a three foot exposure, and "assuming" a good sandy bottom with fair protection a 10' sheet installed with a vibratory hammer is a fast and simple job. Tie backs sound like no problem on your site.

My rule of thumb would be between 350 and 500 dollars per running foot of wall (in your case), or course your milage my vary! So call Dave he is great to work with, and by all means get some geotech info. on the site before you do a wall, as heavy clay and aluminum do not work well together.

Another solution is articulating block mats. Armortec’s Armorflex mats consist of machine compressed cellular concrete blocks of a interlocking shape that is made up into mats. The blocks—open- and closed-cell—are cabled longitudinally by means of galvanized steel aircraft or polyester cables.

http://www.contech-cpi.com/products/productGroups.asp?id=10&src=overture

The bottom line is COST, of course. The mats are more difficult to handle. The will require some grading work on the shoreline, along with a 4 to 6 inch crushed stone bed. The crushed stone alone is a high dollar item in Florida.

I believe the Aluminum Seawall is your best bet. It's fast, can be done almost completely from the water and requires little dirt work. Might need to haul some for back fill behind the wall?

Hope this helps, sounds like a neat project.

Good luck!

 

[TerryScan]

You may also consider a softer approach such as coir logs. Check out the bottom of this page:

http://www.pinelandsnursery.com/erosion.htm

or the Chesapeake Bay Foundation website:

http://www.cbf.org/site/PageServer?pagename=action_outdoors_landscaping_filters_shorelines