Gap between OSB wall sheathing 4

[BigBakwas77]

I have just been to review the floor framing of a site. Though wall framing was not part of my scope but I noticed gaps of 3/8" to 3/4" at the horizontal connection of plywood sheathing. I know that recommended gap for expansion of sheathing is 1/8" to 1/4" minimum but what I found on site was excessive. I have looked for any information on finding maximum value for gaps between sheathing sheets but cannot find any information. Hence my post here.

 

[phamENG]

Not necessarily a problem, though 3/4" is pretty extreme. Were they supposed to be braced or shear walls? If so, then throw the red flag. But for typical gravity only walls, It's probably not going to have a bad effect on the structure. Just make sure you have a competent uplift load path. This arrangement cannot use the sheathing for it.

 

[BigBakwas77]

@phamENG
It is not a shear wall nor a tall wall. The other concern I have is energy dissipation.

 

[dik]

Is this attached to normal 1-1/2" dimensioned lumber material? Do you need to sister a wall stud?

Rather than think climate change and the corona virus as science, think of it as the wrath of God. Feel any better?

-Dik

 

[BigBakwas77]

@dik
Yes the sheathing is attached to 2x6 wall studs. The verticall joints between sheathing sheets are at the stud locations. What the picture shows is the horizontal joint between sheathing sheets.

 

[JoshPlumSE]

As long as it's not a shear wall, then I can't see how it would be a structural issue.

It might be a building envelope issue (that might be what you meant by "energy dissipation"). What I'm referring to is water tightness of the walls or energy efficiency loss do to the gap. Even that is a bit of a stretch for me.

I'm guessing it was either lazy construction, or part of some goofy construction technique to all the wall to be built or tilted up more easily.

 

[BigBakwas77]

@JoshPlumSE
I agree that this is a lazy construction. Usually contractors do shoddy work to save time and / or money. What I did not understand is that how were time or money saved in doing shoddy job like this.

 

[dhengr]

BigBakwas77:
Was the wall detailed or built the wrong height, in the first place, and what dictated this height? Thus, they would need a few joint gaps, or need to rip a1.5”, or some such, strip to make the full height. Is it nailed well at the t&b plates? You could make them block those joints joints, with a 3x or 4x. How is the wall actually built, full sheets of sheathing, stud length, t&b pls., etc? Draw a scale section of that wall, with all parts dimensioned, including sill pl. atop the found. wall, joists and rim jst., fl. sheathing, etc. Where did they start the lower edge of the sheathing, and why? What does the builder say about this crappy workmanship? Have them seal these sheathing joints with some really expensive peal-n-stick flashing tape.

 

[MotorCity]

If there is a gap of 3/8" to 3/4", that means: (1) The framing is not plumb, (2) the sheathing is not plumb, or (3) neither is plumb.

Interpret any of those as "built in" story drift or out of plumbness. Those values are generally on the order of what is tolerated under lateral load alone. It may be an issue with façade construction.