Wow, this is confusing. Smokiibear, are you trying to add a steel plate to the bottom of the beam (flat) or to the side of the beam (Vertical)? I don't understand what you are talking about with the "center of the beam".
If plate is in Vertical orientation, get a transformed moment of inertia and then calculate your stress (fb = Mc/I)
I normally "transform" the steel to wood (Es / Ew). Use the transformed I in calculating your deflection. The attachment of the steel to wood is a ratio of the amount the steel plate is carrying verses the wood beam. Remember this force is input throughout the member and must be accouted for at the end of the beam.
If you are really worried about horizontal shear in a steel plate (cough cough) use fv = 1.5*V/A compare %force in each material to their respective allowable Fv.
If you are trying to add a plate to the bottom of the beam in a flat orientation, then use simple mechanics to generate a "T" force for the steel plate and provide the proper amount of connectors to the wood to get the force back to the wood beam at the ends. (similar to using shear studs on composite steel / concrete beams).
Moment = Force*Distance ---> Force (shear) = Moment / Distance
where Moment = max beam moment
Distance = center of compression to center of tension
Notes:
1) Are you using the true or apparent "E" of the glulam beam? I would reccommend apparent and then you can ignore the shear deflection of the beam.
2) The glulam beam should be jacked to initial shape first if you want the steel plate to take any of the load.
3) I have never seen horizontal shear control for "Flitch plates" in conjunction with wood beams. I have seen it control the design of steel beams many times.
4) The devil is in the "Details"! Make sure you connect the steel plate properly to the Glulam beam or all your work will be for naught. Pay attention especially to the compression edge of the steel plate (vertical orientation).
Good luck! I hope this makes sense. If not, I'll try again.
