bicyclemichaela
Civil/Environmental
- Aug 19, 2008
- 2
Dear People:
I’m not an engineer yet. But my master’s project in civil engineering from Norwich University (online degree) is a new residential installation of a septic system and a graywater system to save potable water in the irrigation of about 70 avocado trees. There is currently a San Diego Co. DEH approved lot layout for the septic system’s leach field. The DEH specified leach pipes 2’ deep on top of 3’ of gravel in a 5’ deep trench.
The trenches for the septic system could be placed down slope from each row of trees and branched drain fed, mulch basins for the graywater could be placed upslope of each row of trees. The soil has low permeability. The average is 27 mpi, but some spots were >240 mpi. With the new, more liberal, graywater regulations in California coming up, this may, if the local agency agrees to use them, make the installation easier.
Well that hopefully gives an idea of what I’m doing. Any specific or general suggestions are most welcome. Here are two specific questions:
1) If by whatever means it is determined that the graywater is over watering the avocado trees, what would be a good way to have the systems configured so that the graywater flows can be turned down or off and the flows be rerouted for disposal or use in areas with ornamental irrigation? What I'm thinking of is using 3 way valves to divert the graywater to the septic system.
2) How can mulch basins be put in around mature orchard trees with well developed root structures? I guess it depends if the tree has developed deep or shallow roots. I’ll have to find that out. Shallow feeder roots could make it difficult to build the mulch basin because digging the basin could significantly harm the tree. But if the roots are deep, then digging the basin wouldn’t harm the trees. Watch a video on graywater that shows what mulch basins are at .
Thanks.
Michael Roth
I’m not an engineer yet. But my master’s project in civil engineering from Norwich University (online degree) is a new residential installation of a septic system and a graywater system to save potable water in the irrigation of about 70 avocado trees. There is currently a San Diego Co. DEH approved lot layout for the septic system’s leach field. The DEH specified leach pipes 2’ deep on top of 3’ of gravel in a 5’ deep trench.
The trenches for the septic system could be placed down slope from each row of trees and branched drain fed, mulch basins for the graywater could be placed upslope of each row of trees. The soil has low permeability. The average is 27 mpi, but some spots were >240 mpi. With the new, more liberal, graywater regulations in California coming up, this may, if the local agency agrees to use them, make the installation easier.
Well that hopefully gives an idea of what I’m doing. Any specific or general suggestions are most welcome. Here are two specific questions:
1) If by whatever means it is determined that the graywater is over watering the avocado trees, what would be a good way to have the systems configured so that the graywater flows can be turned down or off and the flows be rerouted for disposal or use in areas with ornamental irrigation? What I'm thinking of is using 3 way valves to divert the graywater to the septic system.
2) How can mulch basins be put in around mature orchard trees with well developed root structures? I guess it depends if the tree has developed deep or shallow roots. I’ll have to find that out. Shallow feeder roots could make it difficult to build the mulch basin because digging the basin could significantly harm the tree. But if the roots are deep, then digging the basin wouldn’t harm the trees. Watch a video on graywater that shows what mulch basins are at .
Thanks.
Michael Roth