Hold down for stud column 1

[JStructsteel]

Trying to find the easiest Simpson strap to hold down a support for a beam. (2)-2x6 column, sitting on floor and rim beam. Do they make a anchor that attaches to the foundation wall and holds the rim board and then my studs down?

My idea was a LTT19 at each post. Second thought was just a strap (Simpson HTSQ) onto the rim board, since there is enough DL to resist the uplift from the floor joist.

Thoughts?

 

[phamENG]

Can you provide a sketch? Typically, hold downs are installed attached to the stud with the anchor bolt passing through the sole plate, sheathing, past the rim board, through the sill plate, and set into the foundation wall. I'm not sure I'm understanding how your situation is different.

 

[dik]

I occasionally use Simpson's holddowns... depends on the load you have.

Dik

 

[JStructsteel]

Its not a huge uplift, approx 500lbs. Attached is a sketch of my detail I was thinking about.

 

[KootK]

I don't love the idea of delivering the load to the rim such that you'd be taxing the rim in tension perpendicular to grain. I've typically followed phamENG's approach.

 

[phamENG]

I suppose it could work if you have enough dead load in your floor joist. Just make sure the joist to rim connection can handle it. One thing to think about is how many nails will have to go into the rim in that area. You'll have to fasten the strap to the rim and the rim to the joist in the same space. I'm sure there's room, but it may require some detailing to get it right.

 

[phamENG]

Good point KootK - didn't think about that. Simpson does make a strap with a return on the end - it's intended for beam applications. It could work in this case, though timing is critical for installation and inspection is essentially impossible. It puts most of the load into the bottom of the beam (rim in this case) and avoids the cross grain tension.

 

[jayrod12]

I would add a simpson strong-tie DTT2Z on the inside face of the rim to the anchor bolt closest and then would probably be comfortable with the idea, provided you've taken a look at the items noted above. Specifically Koot's warning about cross grain tension. Simpson's capacities assume optimal conditions for the lumber connection. It's up to you to adjust as required for alternate type connection details.

 

[TheDW]

Do you have sheathing on the outside of the wall, attaching to the rim joist?

We use LTT19's for this condition frequently

 

[msquared48]

Look at the STHD14RJ or similar for that application. Page 84 of the Simpson 2017-2018 Wood Construction Connectors manual.

Mike McCann, PE, SE (WA, HI)

 

[BAretired]

Look at the STHD14RJ or similar for that application.

Absolutely!

BA

 

[phamENG]

I forgot about that one. Around here all the foundation walls are CMU, so I usually skip that page. I'd say that's probably your best option if you're dealing with a concrete foundation wall.

 

[jayrod12]

That strap certainly does seem to fit the bill. Around here, that wouldn't fly. It's hard enough to get contractors on board with placing the anchor bolt even remotely correct, much less a strap. Usually, for light loads I will try to get a post installed anchor bolt to work with a standard hold down to work.

 

[benjaneer]

I think using a STHDI4RJ is overkill for this situation. There's only around 500lb of uplift so I'd go with a DTT1Z simpson holdown that is raised off the sill plate like shown on page 76 of Simpson 2017-2018 Wood Construction Connectors manual. The framers can just drill through the bottom plate of the wall and couple the anchor rod.

 

[AaronMcD]

I typically go with HDU for seismic, but may be overkill for 500 lbs. I've seen those straps that install at the corner in the catalog, haven't used them though. I just feel like anchor bolts are more common and less likely to throw off the concrete subs, but Idk. I use deck tension ties for lighter loads in various orientations (DTT1Z, DTT2Z). Embed threaded rod anchor, run it up to the post, fasten to holdown. For seismic loads you need a standoff anyway to avoid overstrength, but overstrength on 500 lbs is still minuscule.

Is the concrete already in place? Is there a reason you don't want to attach to it? If it's in place you can drill/epoxy an anchor. Or strap down the side and screw it in if it's not exposed.

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