How Do I add a Ground to an Outlet???

Hi, I just moved into a new place and I realized that the outlet in my room is not grounded. They're all those 2 hole outlets. I have an expensive new computer and with all the rolling blackouts here in California, I don't want to risk my equipment. I was wondering how I would go about, and what I would need to add a ground an outlet.

 

[jbartos]

Suggestion:
1. The proper solution is to have a licensed electrical contractor to install the grounded receptacle according to the NFPA 70-1999 National Electrical Code (he is supposed to be very familiar with)
2. The receptacle ground is not essential for the computer operation, although it is required to be grounded for the safety of its operator. What is more important is the power quality that includes protection against overvoltages, voltage sags, harmonics, voltage spikes, etc. Often, computers are powered over uninterruptible power supplies, or power line conditioners that may actually isolate the computer from the regular power receptacle ground and may use computer or instrument ground. This means that the computer is safe and potentially grounded to a different ground called a computer or instrument ground (but this is rare in residential buildings).

 

[mustafagerz]

sorry for my english first.

you just need a some cable and a cu(copper) bar (which is 1 m). and you have to connect the cable outlet and bar. then bury the bar to ground. it is enough for a outlet.

 

[jbartos]

Suggestion: The previous posting method may or may not work properly. It is necessary to have a sufficiently low impedance/resistance over the return ground path to the panel to trip the circuit breaker or blow the fuse. It this does not happen by a test short, then the grounding is ineffective/deficient.

 

[kraigb]

As jbartos has suggested, an electrician is likely to have the equipment needed to drive a ground rod and run a ground wire through your walls to the outlet location in question. The preferred method for ground rod installation is to dirve it into the ground (the usual method is to hammer it in with a tool similar to a sliding hammer). This installation method gives you the best chance of having an effective ground that will give you the electrical performance you are looking for.

I am inferring from your post that you are concerned about switching surges that will harm your PC when the power comes back. You are right that your surge supressor (the one in your power strip) will be ineffective without a ground at the outlet, so it's a good idea to pursue the installation of a grounded outlet for that reason as well as for the safety reasons cited by jbartos. Switching surges from the utility are not terribly likely to cause too many problems for your computer unless you are fairly close to the utility substation, but to protect your computer from surges generated within your own home, the surge suppressor is very useful.

So, unless you are terribly interested in personally running the ground wire from the ground rod, through your walls, and finally to the outlet, the electrician option tends to look like an attractive alternative to doing the work yourself. If they are licensed, they also take on the liability if they don't install it correctly.

 

[jbartos]

Suggestion: The modern computer power line conditioners are very sophisticated equipment. They may have a dc section that completely isolate the power supply from your computer including spikes, surges, sags, swells, etc. Then, the computer is fairly safe. Also, the electrical contractor estimate could be compared to the cost of the computer power line conditioner since they are getting more affordable. However, if you need the receptacle ground for other loads, then it is better to have it grounded.

 

[TWong]

If you want to attempt this yourself, take note of my own example. I bought a house that was built in 1963 with the same outlet problem. I purchased a 5/8 diameter by 8 ft long copper grounding rod and wire clamp from the loal hardware store and drove it into the ground next to the distribution panel. Then I ran a solid copper wire from the rod to the grounding bar inside the panel, from which I can now run grounds to whatever plugs I want. I did not change out all the plugs, just the ones for the computer and entertainment center.

I had a local electrician quote the job for me. To change 5 plugs in the house to grounded plugs, drive the rod, and add 3 GFCI outlets was over $500.

 

[jbartos]

Suggestion to the previous posting: Please, what is the ground resistance of your grounding system over your grounding rod? Have you measured it?

 

This can be a very complicated issue. If your interested in clearing a ground fault you must be concerned with the complete ground fault loop including the overcurrent protection device (circuit breaker is most instances) which includes a main bonding jumper at service entrance (a bond between the grounding outlet and the grounded circuit conductor). If your just concerned with the grounding of the outlet, several above responses are adequate. I might add most older houses may not have a ground rod driven at the entrance panel but most have cold water. Its good practice to bond the driven ground rod with the cold water input as well, at service entrance.

 

[blmcghee]

I would be careful doing anything in California before checking the existing codes. You didn't say if you owned the property or not, so anything you do will be grounds for a law suit or failure of insurance reimbursement in case of an accident. I suggest checking with some one with qualifications on changing all outlets as well as adding GFCI outlets where needed. As for connecting to the cold water pipe, I don't think I would because of the use of non-metal pipes and connectors in a lot of local water supply lines.