Is there a source for beaded flanges per AS5131? 4

[KirbyWan]

Howdy all,

I feel like this should be an off the shelf component. But I can't find a source. I want the rolled beaded flanges per AS5131. The standard has sizes per a table. I just keep coming up with places to buy the beading rollers. Is there no shop that just cranks out the tube ends so we could buy them and weld them on? The standard doesn't specify a material so I know I need to define that and the temper.

thanks,

-Kirby

Kirby Wilkerson

Remember, first define the problem, then solve it.

 

[rb1957]

talk to an OEM that uses these things ? their supplier ?

"Hoffen wir mal, dass alles gut geht !"
General Paulus, Nov 1942, outside Stalingrad after the launch of Operation Uranus.

 

[3DDave]

The point of the beading is to avoid welding or brazing things on. What motivates wanting to weld something instead?

 

[edmeister]

check out

https://www.speedcomfly.com/sito-ecommerce/file_info/03711.pdf

 

[RoarkS]

I used to build environmental components to that spec. We'd get the tubes laser cut then manually bead them. It's not hard to do. Used to stack washers on the stop so it was idiot proof once the tool was set up. This is the one we used to use

https://furickcup.com/product/k2-bead-roller/

Wonder if you're working on my old project.

 

[KirbyWan]

The motivation is repairing damaged beaded flanges on existing heat exchangers. We may just need to do the rolling ourselves. The ATS145 from aircraft supply looks too small, one of the flanges is 6.5". But that K2 tool might fit the bill, I guess i was avoiding the cost of the tool and time, but this may be the only path.

Thanks all,

-Kirby

Kirby Wilkerson

Remember, first define the problem, then solve it.

 

[Stephan Nelle]

Kirby, also check these out:

https://www.grahamtool.com/tube-beading-tools

 

[WKTaylor]

IF forming aluminum 5052, 6061, etc...

Suggest You consider another tool, also... for the other end to be welded to the cut-off duct: swage-opening... to discretely expand the end of either the cutoff-tube... or the end of the 'stub-tube'... so that it can tightly slip-over the deburred 'straight-end'... be adjusted for for perfect length/alignment... then 'weld-down' the outer-tube-wall [swages-open] to the inner-tube wall [of course after weld surface cleaning prep]. TaDa simple weld joint, no filler [base-metal to base metal]. I like to swage open the tube end for ~0.38-to-0.50 to allow latitude for adjustment. It is best done if there is an air-flow in the X-direction... to have the swaged-open on the opposite part facing into the flowing air [-x direction].

Typical fusion welding per AWS D17.1 or USAF T.O. 00-25-252 or a proprietary weld spec. NO NEED for weld filler simplifies the weld. Cleaning is essential as it flooding the tube ID and exterior weld area with inert gas [dry-out moisture and blanket with melted weld bead from oxidation until it solidifies.

Regards, Wil Taylor
o Trust - But Verify!
o For those who believe, no proof is required; for those who cannot believe, no proof is possible. [variation, Stuart Chase]
o Unfortunately, in science what You 'believe' is irrelevant. ["Orion", HBA forum]
o Only fools and charlatans know everything and understand everything." -Anton Chekhov

 

[Sparweb]

It looks like you can buy a tool set from Aircraft Spruce for about 500$ USD.

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/parkerbead.php?clickkey=772326