Is this weld possible???

[imagineers]

I designed a manifold about 70mm tall by about 22mm square. As you can see in the image i am attempting to place the two barbs into the holes of a block that is CNC'd out of stainless, then welding them into place to ensure sealing. The top cap is also welded into place. The gap around the barbs square outer walls to the outer walls of the block is almost 2mm and about 6mm deep... I was looking closer at this and was thinking it might be tough to weld into such a narrow gap thats also 6mm deep, but I am not a welder. Is this realistic? If I switched to aluminum I could alternately braze the bottom face of the barb area to the block then throw it in an oven which might be better but I am not sure???????

 

[MintJulep]

Stainless can be furnace brazed under vacuum or in an inert gas atmosphere - depending on the exact grade.

 

[TonyD71502]

Why not avoid welding by machining threaded holes into the manifold for the barbs to screw into? Use a thread sealer and be done with it.

 

[btrueblood]

Mike's idea works. If you can't braze, the only option I can see is to open a port on the opposite face, so that the joint can be EB welded, then plug and seal weld the port.

 

[SnTMan]

Size the parts so that you can seal weld around the entire periphery of the rectangular portion, as it mates to the manifold, of the barbed part. Poor way to go, but if you have to weld, it's a way.

Regards,

Mike

 

[gtaw]

Rule of Thumb: If you can't see it, the welder can't weld it. If you can't reach it, the welder can't weld it.

Best regards - Al

 

[SnTMan]

And another: Every time you fire up a welder, you're losing money

(I am in an industry that depends on it heavily)

Regards,

Mike

 

[BillPSU]

How are you going to make the tube section of this design? Making those undercuts and notches are going to be much more expensive than the right angle bead fittings.

Bill

 

[MikeHalloran]

Even if the weld could be made, the right angle barb fittings will be crazy expensive.

Better to eliminate the pocket into which they are recessed, leave the actual barbs exactly where they are, and weld straight barb fittings into the simplified 'back' face. ... assuming the function and internal configuration allows.

If the pocket must be there, then I'd leave the body as is, weld in long straight barb fittings pointing to the 'right', and bend them toward the back after welding.

If your heart is really set on what you've got, the weld might become possible if you radius the exterior surfaces of the elbows. Mock up the joint on your desk with bars of soap. See if you can trace the weld line with a drawing pencil lead, which is about the diameter of a TIG electrode. If you can do that, a welder can probably stick the electrode out and get it done.




Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA