Landing support 1

[JStructsteel]

I may have talked about this before, but I have a job where the rear wall is a 3-wythe brick wall. Its in bad shape. The plan is to rebuild with 3 wythes up to the second floor, then 2x6's with a veneer.

At the door on the 2nd floor, there will be a landing. I am going to kick it down to the wall below. I am trying to come up with the best connection. I show a WT they embed when rebuilding, but having second thoughts due to water infiltration.

Another idea would be to use a thru bolt plate, with a angle or something to catch the 4x4 coming down. (alternate is to use steel angle to kick down)

Any better thoughts how to support this landing. About 9 feet long. Not a huge amount of load.

[URL unfurl="true"]https://res.cloudinary.com/engineering-com/image/upload/v1678845965/tips/Landing_Support_i1t0b8.pdf[/url]

 

[jerseyshore]

Do you absolutely positively need to cantilever it out like that and use the kickers? There is no way to cantilever out 2 beams on either end and run infill framing? I try to avoid details like this with brick.

 

[KootK]

I like a steel kicker into a plate bolted to the face of the wall with HY70 screen tube anchors or whatever is in vogue for this kind thing these days.

You want the lateral load component delivered to the exterior face if possible (punching shear-ish).

The vertical component of load will hit the wall at the exterior face no matter how your arrangement.

These are some of the things that inform my preference.

Obviously, whatever you, the wall has to work.

 

[JStructsteel]

Jerseyshore, its not new construction, so I have to support a the rim board and have a brace. Its 9'x4' so around 1000lbs at each brace. The walls will be rebuilt, so I can add what I need in the wall.

KootK, I was trying not to use a face bearing plate, but i would prefer a steel kicker. I could use a bigger plate and have the load spread out. good thing is wont be too much tension on the anchors.

 

[KootK]

KootK, I was trying not to use a face bearing plate

For aesthetic reasons I assume?

 

[Celt83]

I'd also be careful with your sill plate attachment to the exist. masonry wall. The last time I looked into this none of the anchor suppliers would warranty their stuff installed into the top of a multi-wythe brick wall so usually see the horizontal reaction transferred via a side mounted angle or bent plate.

 

[JStructsteel]

KootK, yes, worried about long term rusting, etc.

Celt83 I might change to a grouted anchor, since they will be reworking the wall. Also, across the top of the joists and bridging out onto the deck i will have strapping.

 

[jerseyshore]

I agree with Celt, side or face of brick sure, but never in the top of MW brick.

 

[JStructsteel]

Still struggling with this connection. Looks like spacing needs to be huge to get the capacity.

Any thoughts? Load is 2900lbs, so its a bit more than I expected.

[URL unfurl="true"]https://res.cloudinary.com/engineering-com/image/upload/v1679444056/tips/Anchor_Plate_m7ksse.pdf[/url]

 

[jerseyshore]

What's controlling, shear in the anchors or tension (from uplift)?

 

[Standard American]

I would add more kickers if the reaction is too large to make the connection work.

Edit: you could also add a steel post (hss) in your wall you are rebuilding and connect to that instead of trying to make epoxy anchors work.

 

[JStructsteel]

Its controlled by bond to the masonry.

I thought about a embedded item, and weld/bolt onto that. To me it would just be relying on the weight of the wall to resist. Also was worried about waterproofing issues.

 

[jerseyshore]

I think what SA is saying is to use a full height column in the wall. I've done that for cantilevered canopies in masonry walls and could be doable here. Just put a new HSS column buried in the brick full height that can take the reactions. You just have to make sure it's adequately attached top and bottom.