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New light bulb technology - any good?

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Skogsgurra

Electrical
Mar 31, 2003
11,815
It seems that this bulb is available in the US now: Vu1 Lighting

I saw several reviews written by people in San Diego and a few other places. They say it is super - and doesn't cost too much.

I am sceptical. The field emission technology (without heated cathode) seemed to be a good idea many years ago. But is it still a good idea? LED lamps cost a third or less and their life is three times longer.

The Vu1 bulb has a heated cathode. Is that what makes it shine (no pun)?

Has anyone tried out the Vu1 bulb? Thoughts?

Gunnar Englund
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Half full - Half empty? I don't mind. It's what in it that counts.
 
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"A light emitting device (100) has a cathode-ray tube (102, 104, 106, 112) and power supply (114). The cathode-ray tube in an embodiment is optimized for emitting a broad electron beam, in one variation a dome-shaped diffusing grid is used to spread the beam. In another embodiment, the device has a base (112) adapted for attachment to a standard lighting fixture."

WOUS2008053094@@@false@@@en;jsessionid=C1C4AEB04749BD6FD7723DE271225D29.wapp1nA
 
Crikey - the image is about twice as wide as it appeared to be during the preview.
 
Thanks! The lamp seems to be rather big also!

Thanks - there's a pathetic attempt to use cold field emission to produce lamps. The company is named LightLab and some of their spokespersons say that the Vu1 (relative) succes is a good indicator that the Field Emission Lamps will work.

I am not so sure about that.

Gunnar Englund
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Half full - Half empty? I don't mind. It's what in it that counts.
 
The native resolution of the image is pretty high, so the forum software does shrink images like that; in this case, on my display, it's only about 62% of its native size

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One thing that might be good is dimmability. Most of the LED bulbs I have don't dim down to zero, or even can't be completely turned off. My LED Christmas lights are always dimly lit when supposedly "off." They go off only when the switch is purely mechanical; electronic switches have apparently sufficient leakage or sneak paths that can still provide sufficient power to partially light and LED. Because this bulb requires a heated cathode, an electronic switch would be sufficient to keep the cathode from heating up, and therefore will keep the emission off.

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7ofakss

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Gunnar,

For some time it looked like the company (Vu1) was going under, maybe they can avoid bankruptcy? I did find the R30 bulbs for sale at:

they apparently received UL approval for a Chinese factory, and are shipping to the US now.

I went ahead and ordered one. I'll let you know a) if the bulb gets here and b) what it's like. I'm getting tired of replacing the CFL bulbs in R30 cans in our house. Usually the ballasts in those overheat and burn out.
 
Great! I tried to order a few myself. But they don't ship to Sweden. And don't think that the 120 V bulb will live long in our 230 V sockets...

Gunnar Englund
--------------------------------------
Half full - Half empty? I don't mind. It's what in it that counts.
 
I don't see it being viable. An LED lamp that consumes 20V will put out between 1600 and 2000 lumens, a CFL that consumes 20W puts out 1250 lumens. This one puts out 500. That's a LOT less light for the power consumption.


"You measure the size of the accomplishment by the obstacles you had to overcome to reach your goals" -- Booker T. Washington
 
I've been hearing they are ready to ship for the last two years. Not holding my breath on the latest news!
 
Short answer to your original question, Gunnar: Nope.

R30 form bulb arrived late yesterday, put it into a recessed lighting fixture (1 of 3 in a line over the kitchen table) and turned it on (around 5:00 pm, maybe 5:30).

Compared to a tungsten bulb in adjacent fixture, it was about equal, but compared to an LED bulb in the other end of the line, it was noticeably dimmer/less luminous. FWIW, I replaced a CFL bulb that had noticeably dimmed after installing it sometime last year - I have not had good life from any CFL bulb, ever. Also, the Vu1 bulb protruded about 3/4" out of the recessed ceiling can. Also more - reading the package, there was a statement that the bulb was "not intended for fully enclosed fixures" or some such, which I think about 90% of these types of bulbs would be used in.

About 10:00 pm, the wife came upstairs and informed me that the bulb had gone out, the base of the bulb (electonics housing?) had become very hot. Checked again this morning, after letting it cool down overnight, and it is still dead. Now to see if I can get a refund...
 
Sorry, should have added: the "standard", tungsten bulb was a 65 watt R30 bulb.
 
I guessed so.

Thanks for the valuable information.

Gunnar Englund
--------------------------------------
Half full - Half empty? I don't mind. It's what in it that counts.
 
I replaced a large quantity of 60W bulbs in the new house with 70W-equivalent LED versions from Ikea... they definitely meet the 70W-brightness parameter, but I'll have to wait a few more hours to see if they live up to their expected lifetime rating. 13W each, which is a huge help since pretty much every switch in the house controls anywhere from 3-15 bulbs!

Dan - Owner
Footwell%20Animation%20Tiny.gif
 
I installed a few "60 W" IKEA bulbs almost two years ago. The one ouside the entrance door and the one in the hallway are always lit. They have demonstrated around 15 kh life so far.
The other ones are switched on/of regularly. None of my LED bulbs have failed so far.

Gunnar Englund
--------------------------------------
Half full - Half empty? I don't mind. It's what in it that counts.
 
Ditto that from here - the LED bulbs in ceiling fixtures have held up over a year with no apparent problems. For what we paid for them (~$20 each?), they need to last a loooong time, though.

One last thing about the Vu1 bulb that may me go "hunh" - there was a funny crackling sound when the bulb was switched on or off. Now, it's been a while since I've been around CRT's, so at first I thought something in the power electronics was acting up (some CFL bulbs do that too, usually right before they crap out). On closer investigation, though, it was just the crackle of static charge building up across the face of the tube when powered on (and discharging when turned off). Disconcerting at first, but not all that obnoxious...but am willing to bet that if they ever make inroads in the market, somebody will need to sell lamp dusters to the users.
 
The specified luminous efficacy is consistent with what's in Wikipedia: and that puts the ESL bulb at no better than about 2x the efficiency of the incandescent bulb, comparable to many incandescent bulbs.

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7ofakss

Need help writing a question or understanding a reply? forum1529


Of course I can. I can do anything. I can do absolutely anything. I'm an expert!
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btrue, I think I paid $11/bulb a couple of months back... and that was without any sort of coupon, sale, etc. If they go on sale, I may buy a boatload more. It certainly reduces the power load, I just wish they offered dimmable versions.

Dan - Owner
Footwell%20Animation%20Tiny.gif
 
I recently bought 400 lm LED lamps at Clas Olsson (kind of boy's toys shop) at SEK 30 apiece. That is around USD 3.5 They still work. Good light quality and dimmable with a Variac. All the way down to zero. Triac and similar dimmers don't work well because of the peak rectification.

Gunnar Englund
--------------------------------------
Half full - Half empty? I don't mind. It's what in it that counts.
 
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