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Parks Planer Bearings 1

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UOldGoat

Electrical
May 17, 2007
2
I'm hoping to rebuild an old wood working tool, Parks 12" thickness planer. The shaft holding the planer head is about 1" diameter, 20" long, supported at each end by ball bearings bedded/encased in babbitt which is further housed in cast iron pillow block structures which split into top and bottom halves for access to the bearings. There is a alemite ('zerk') grease fitting on the top of each pillow block which facilitates lubrication of the ball bearings via channels scribed into the babbitt leading the grease to the ball bearings.

The babbitt on the upper half of one of these two bearings is nearly destroyed; while the planner still functions satisfactorily, I'd like to fix it before there is a catastrophic failure.

My current strategy is to temporarily protect the sides of the ball bearing from molten babbitt with aluminum flashing or cardboard and Babbitt-Rite putty. Seperate upper and lower halves of pillow block with thin piece of cardboard. Also use the putty to prevent babbitt from running out the sides of the cast iron housing which is quite open until babbitt fills the space between the shaft and the cast iron. Remove the alemite fitting. Heat the whole pillow block assembly with a propane torch but not to the point of melting babbitt already in the lower half which currently provides correct alignment for the shaft. And, then pour molten babbitt into the (small, 1/4") alemite fitting hole to fill the cavity. Air should escape via loose fit between shaft and sides of pillow block. The cavity to be filled is 3 to 4 cubic inches.

Would lead based rather than tin babbitt be more appropriate for this type of application of supporting ball bearings? Or, Lead Free Pewter (listed at McMaster-Carr)?

Would J-B Weld (a 2 part epoxy like substance) be a viable alternative since the sole purpose of the babbitt in this application is to hold the ball bearings in position and not actually provide a bearing surface?

Any guidance, suggestions, or comments are greatly appreciated.
 
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I'd use the J-B Weld. It won't anneal the bearings.



Mike Halloran
Pembroke Pines, FL, USA
 
.
Shimming is another idea but from your description I gather you have no intention of dis-assembly and machining.

There is a way material that can be mixed and poured but as you don't exactly need ways the JB-weld should work.

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I wondered if I was way out of the ball park with the idea of J-B Weld but, your two votes for it gives me more confidence to try it.

I do not have machining tools available. The simpler, the better...as long as the solution is effective, durable, safe, etc.

Pressed, what is that 'way material that can be mixed and poured' that you wrote about? Is it an epoxy material similar to J-B Weld that has some known, measured material properties published? Would suspect it to be a better choice for this type of application? All I know about J-B Weld is the advertizing hype printed on their package.

This planner has a direct drive, 3450 RPM, 3HP motor.

Mike and Pressed, Thank you for your inputs.
 
The devitt company calls it plastik-metal or something close to that. It comes in different hardnesses. I don't see any applications for journals and expect it won't work for a journal wear surface, well, not for long anyway.

It is meant for large area compression and wear. To build-up worn way surfaces. It's cheaper to use than re-machining large equipment ways.

I bet they have a minimum order or they only sell in quarts and such. As jb-weld is everywhere and cheap, I think it your best bet. It holds up to water and oil as well. I am assuming the load to be applied is compression only.

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