Part Adhesion To Heated Plate

[CorBlimeyLimey]

We are having great success with part adhesion by just scuffing the Kapton with a sponge sanding block. No slurry required.
The part sticks well but is easier to remove without damaging the Kapton.

We still need the slurry on long (more than 4") pieces though, to prevent corner lift.

Anyone else using a different approach?

 

[MacGyverS2000]

Hairspray... the cheaper the better (e.g., AquaNet, et. al.).

Dan - Owner

http://www.Hi-TecDesigns.com

 

[ivymike]

I use ABS juice and I have plastic shields all around my print bed (which rise with the bridge) to keep airflow to a minimum. On parts with long tall walls I perforate the walls (where possible) to reduce the tendency to curl and delaminate.

 

[Mekada]

I have good results using hair spray on a 3mm thick piece of glass that I clamp on the bed. I have 2 pieces of said glass to be able to let one cool while printing the next part.

 

[Guest0527211403]

I've been using kapton on a glass plate. The glass was from a $2 picture frame from the dollar store. I bought a 100 foot roll of 8" wide kapton for about $30 from amazon.

VERY useful hint for putting kapton on glass :

Spray the glass with window cleaning spray, try to get a good even layer. Roll out the kapton, keeping the sticky side from sticking to itself. Lay the kapton down over the wet glass, and it will "float" a bit. You can now use a plastic putty knife to work out all of the bubbles and any excess window cleaner. Let it sit for 24 hours and the kapton is perfectly stuck to the glass with no bubbles or bumps.

Before loading on my build platform I rough it up with sandpaper, give it a quick acetone wipe and mount it with binder clips. I'll also pre-treat it with ABS juice if I'm working with a part that has a small footprint.

 

[ivymike]

I stopped using glass when I cut myself trying to remove a stuck part (glass broke)