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Proper use of Flat Washers, Lock Washers Et. Al. 3

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wd4dui

Electrical
Mar 20, 2004
6
I am working for a company that produces military hardware and I am having a hard time convincing anyone here that the use of a flat washer is necessary when fastening irridited aluminum parts. They insist that only a lock washer is required. I have shown them the result of using no flat.....pitted and chewed parts from the locks. I have searched everywhere to find a document to show them something that supports my position. Also, we stainless hardware from #2 to 1/4'' machine screws. Would it not be better to not chew up the irriditing and allow electrolisis to start? If the irridite is not comprimised a better resistance to dissimalr metal corrosion? Most of our stuff is used in salt air and other harsh environments. Any info would be appreciated greatly. Thanks
Rob
WD4DUI@bellsouth.net
 
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You are correct regarding the proper joint design, but I can't think of a reference that answers your question directly. Perhaps Handbook of Bolts and Bolted Joints or NASA RP1228 Fastener Design Manual would be suitable.

The Handbook is available at:


The Manual is available at:


Regards,

Cory

Please see FAQ731-376 for tips on how to make the best use of Eng-Tips Fora.
 
If your making military hardware I would think that you are being held to a specific quality standard. If your company is not ISO certified than you will be held to the MIL standard. In those standards it will specify what is required for all aspects of manufacturing for the military.

Try this site
It will help you search for the right standard. You might have to purchase the standard but I know for some you dont.



Good Luck
 
Rob,

You may be right in terms of corrosion, but adding a flat washer is wrong and will defeat the action of the lock washer.

Without the flat washer, the lock washer digs into the fastener and the part being fastened. This is how the lock washer "locks".

Now if you add a flat washer to protect the part from damage from the lock washer, the flat washer will be locked to the lock washer but the flat washer won't be locked to the part being fastened. This is bad.

Tom

 
except that split washers dont work and here's why:

thread108-114051

 
Thank you all for the great info on the "Evil" lock washer. Think I will suggest Lock-tite, super glue, elmer's glue, duct tape or chewed bubble gum (Bazooka of course) and flat washers. The lock-tite will probably suffice.

Thanks again!

Rob

WD4DUI@Bellsouth.net
 
tlee123 is correct, there is another issue as well, toothed lock washers that dig into the surface improve conductivity/bonding for enclosure parts that need grounding for EMI purposes.
 
There are a lot of better ways to get a good bond than mutilating the component with a toothed lock washer. Installing lock washers without plain washers will result in scratches, which can cause cracks in highly stressed structure, as well as increased corrosion susceptibility. One of many references for this is found under lockwashers at the following site.

 
Guys-
Toss the helical-split, internal-toothed, and external-toothed lock washers. I've tested these on railroad equipment. Bolted joints without are better than with! The lockwashers make the joints softer and drive the natural frequencies down. Instead use Bellville, wavy-spring, or cupped spring washers!

Best of all, use prevailing-torque locking methods ala nylon patched screws or self-locking nuts with nylon locking element.

If you find a credible reference that did a formal study on lock washers, I WOULD LOVE TO HAVE IT!



Tunalover
 
In addition to the washers, for military hardware there is usually lockwire also.

Chris
Sr. Mechanical Designer, CAD
SolidWorks 05 SP3.1 / PDMWorks 05
ctopher's home site

FAQ559-1100
FAQ559-716
 
In racing applications where grade 8 bolts are used to attach the exhaust header to the aluminum head, I've been using hi-temp RTV silicone sealant on the bolt threads (sae 3/8-16). This seems to hold everything regardless of the vibration, steel header flange and the gasket. Plus, it comes off easily and doesn't ruin the threaded inserts in the head. I've used all the LocTite products (good stuff) but this seems to work better with the temperature variations.

Just good old race track engineering......

"If A equals success, then the formula is: A = X + Y + Z, X is work. Y is play. Z is keep your mouth shut."
-- by Albert Einstein
 
sprintcar- that sounds pretty good. Like the RTV is filling the gap btw the root and crest of the thread fit and acting like a nylock. Without the extreme adhesion of Loktite.
 
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