TexasPE
Chemical
- Aug 27, 2003
- 32
Daughter had an inlet valve freeze on her sprinkler system backflow preventer. It is a large 1" brass Febco 765 PVB type with an inlet and outlet valve. Problem was even if she opened the vents ports on the PVB it did not drain the water off the top of the inlet valve that was installed in the vertical position. The inlet valve body froze and caused a freeze crack in the body. As long as she keeps the valve shut it is not leaking. My concern is if the pressure on the crack is sufficient (due to a water hammer event etc.) it could cause the body to fail completely causing an uncontrolled leak from her main inlet after the water meter. Could cause massive water bill and
Sad part is she is an independent cuss and does not want any assistance from dad (in the form of payment for a new valve) or for a plumber to replace it. One inch brass ball valves are not cheap these days and she is thinking "if it ain't broke don't fix it" even though I am trying to tell her of the high risk she is taking. (she has some less than educated neighbors saying they repaired theirs with a little epoxy to seal the crack... Yikes.
In looking at the 2015 Texas IHB Plumbing Code it states the following:
My interpretation is that the downstream isolation valve on this PVB setup isn't even needed since it just goes to the sprinkler system. It would seem the Plumbing code is opposed to it anyway. Does anyone know of any issues, in just taking the downstream isolation valve off and moving it to replace the upstream valve. Then can just add some PVC pipe and fittings to replace the downstream valve. Since that would be a low-cost solution, I might get her to let me do that and I would sleep much better at night. Still does not solve the trapped water freezing problem which needs to be dealt with by insulation or heat tape but that is a major problem thorough out the Houston Area. Or am I just reading this code wrong?
Any thoughts?
Sad part is she is an independent cuss and does not want any assistance from dad (in the form of payment for a new valve) or for a plumber to replace it. One inch brass ball valves are not cheap these days and she is thinking "if it ain't broke don't fix it" even though I am trying to tell her of the high risk she is taking. (she has some less than educated neighbors saying they repaired theirs with a little epoxy to seal the crack... Yikes.
In looking at the 2015 Texas IHB Plumbing Code it states the following:
"608.16.5 Connections to Lawn Irrigation Systems
The potable water supply to lawn irrigation systems shall be protected against backflow by an atmospheric vacuum breaker, a pressure vacuum breaker assembly or a reduced pressure principle backflow prevention assembly. Valves shall not be installed downstream from an atmospheric vacuum breaker. Where chemicals are introduced into the system, the potable water supply shall be protected against backflow by a reduced pressure principle backflow prevention assembly."My interpretation is that the downstream isolation valve on this PVB setup isn't even needed since it just goes to the sprinkler system. It would seem the Plumbing code is opposed to it anyway. Does anyone know of any issues, in just taking the downstream isolation valve off and moving it to replace the upstream valve. Then can just add some PVC pipe and fittings to replace the downstream valve. Since that would be a low-cost solution, I might get her to let me do that and I would sleep much better at night. Still does not solve the trapped water freezing problem which needs to be dealt with by insulation or heat tape but that is a major problem thorough out the Houston Area. Or am I just reading this code wrong?
Any thoughts?
