Salt building construction joint filler 2

[Engingguy]

Hello. I am designing the foundation and walls for a small salt storage shed. Any suggestions for a brine resistant filler for the slab joints? Construction joints in this case, not control joints. I am also specifying stainless steel dowels for load transfer. I was thinking of epoxy coated dowels but if anyone has real life experience as to how these hold up against corrosion I would like to hear your opinion.
Thanks, Engingguy

 

[MotorCity]

I would use epoxy dowels, I am guessing they would be much cheaper than stainless dowels. Epoxy coated bars and dowels are used almost exclusively in bridge construction as opposed to un-epoxied bars. If they hold up to the snow, salt, and ice on a bridge, they should be ok for your salt storage building. If you have accounted for corrosion by using stainless or epoxy bars, why fill the joint at all?

 

[Engingguy]

Thanks for your prompt reply Motorcity. I am specifying epoxy coated rebar for this job, might as well use epoxy coated dowels as well. I wonder if they work as well as they could after contractors bang them around. They generally don't like to pay the extra for epoxy coated bars but a salt storage structure is a pretty corrosive environment.
The joint filler is to help contain the brine. Neoprene joint filler perhaps?

 

[cvg]

pvc waterstops would be recommended in all joints

 

[SlideRuleEra]

A construction joint typically does not have a filler. New concrete is placed directly against the previous concrete and rebar are used for dowels (instead of smooth bars) since no slab movement at the joint is desired.

If you do need to seal the joint, a major supplier of concrete joint products is W. R. Meadows Company. Their technical support reps can probably suggest a suitable product.

See this article in the current (June 2016) issue of Structure Magazine for a discussion of the pros and cons corrosion resistance rebar: Steel Rebar Coating For Concrete Structures

If you decide to go with stainless, 316 or 316L are more resistant to chlorides than other commonly available types.

http://www.SlideRuleEra.net

http://www.VacuumTubeEra.net

 

[Ron]

SRE beat me to it....W. R. Meadows Company. I specify their semi-rigid epoxy joint filler for joints that have little or no movement.

 

[Engingguy]

I like the PCV water stop idea. Just specified a bulb type PCV water stop for a dam. May dig that out of the file. I like the ribbed type, because I like to practice safe seal.
This shed will be near to a stream and I am taking an extra step or two to control seepage of contaminated water. Of course, all that salt will be spread on the roads nearbY anyway.....

 

[BigH]

Wouldn't hydrotite be an easier solution to act as a waterstop? The pvc waterstops (without bulbs) are easy to install but I have found that unless the contractor is super particular (and hence the inspector has an easier job), bulbs don't always end up where they start . . .

 

[Engingguy]

I have seem contractors overlap PCV water stop, make their own corners in the field (most manufacturers say that is a no no), and not hog ring it correctly. And with end forms in place it would be hard to inspect. I will look into Hydrotite.

This is a good forum. Thanks.

 

[dicksewerrat]

Use beeswax, poured hot into the joint.

Richard A. Cornelius, P.E.

http://WWW.amlinereast.com

 

[BUGGAR]

"Use beeswax, poured hot into the joint." I've seen this done before - successfully. Where did this come from?

 

[dicksewerrat]

Leak seals in a parking ramp in Minneapolis is where I saw it. When you pour in real hot it soaks into all the little crevices. Works better on a hot July sunshiny day

Richard A. Cornelius, P.E.

http://WWW.amlinereast.com

 

[oldestguy]

I'd figure the joint will eventually move. If you look at rubberized pavement joint fillers, you want one that can take that stretching movement and not fail. A belt and suspenders joint will have a backer rod, a filler capable of stretching and that has good adherence to concrete. Top it off by tooling the joint so that the cross sectional area of the material at the concrete sides attachment is at least twice that of the center of the joint, due to the strength of the adherence being lower than the material itself. The backer rod is there to form a depression in the underside center and the tooling on top depresses that top center, resulting in the smaller cross section are at midway between sides. This joint filler probably has to be applied hot.

All joints probably require routing out to constant width and then blown clean so no dirt is in the way.

 

[BUGGAR]

Might be worth a quick consult with a cathodic protection Engineer?

I've got this hang up on the beeswax - realized this is also "snow seal" that we used to weatherproof everything in the N.W.