steering wheel outer rubber/plastic is loose from steel core

[Tmoose]

the top 120 degree section of om old Volve 940's steering wheel is loose on the )steel) core.
It seems like the PO "worried" it loose by constantly twisting the steering wheel grip fore and aft.
I picture the steel core probably still has some rubber bonded to it. Or maybe not.

My though is to try inject some Loctite 401 or something similar at several locations to bond things back together. Maybe using a steel needled syringe, although 401 will probably bond everything together before I get the chance to withdraw the syringe.

I'm not keen on cutting slits in the OEM wheel covering, but I figure 5-10 punctured holes would be OK.
Especially since I'm likely going to install a thin cover to fatten up the wheel rim anyhow.

Any suggestions based on similar experience are appreciated.

 

[Compositepro]

Use a syringe of 2-part epoxy with a mixing tip. The syringe will be your injector and a 20 minute gel time would be convenient. I use a lot of HP-120 from McMaster in my work. it is very strong with a long gel time. This is something you will only get one chance at doing right. With 2-part syringes it is very important to not have any air bubbles in either part of the syringe. The compression of the bubbles changes the mix ratio.

 

[ScottyUK]

My guess is there's currently an airgap between the moulding and the core which will need an adhesive with gap-filling capability. If you do decide to go the more invasive method and separate the moulding from the core, one of the polyurethane or 'hybrid' adhesives developed for the marine and boatbuilding industries will give you a bond which will probably outlast the vehicle. Hold the two halves in place with a couple of dozen zip ties around the periphery until it cures. Something like 3M's 5200FC is an example, although this type of adhesive is available from most of the big manufacturers.

 

[berkshire]

If yo ever have to take this off you will regret using 5200, If it has to come off again use 5400 .
B.E.

You are judged not by what you know, but by what you can do.

 

[ScottyUK]

Hi berkshire,

That's true. I was assuming tmoose wasn't intending to dismantle his steering wheel a second time.

 

[Tmoose]

Forever would be fine.

My first preference is injection, without having to resort to the Gigli saw.
I'm starting to suspect that method (injection) is just wishful thinking on my part.

 

[epoxybot]

You can buy a Fineline Precision Applicator at an Art Supply store. Link

If you make a mess you can buy a Wheelskin. Link

 

[MintJulep]

Option 1: Learn to live with it.
Option 2: Junk yard steering wheel.

Trying to rebond the rubber is likely to just leave an ugly mess.

 

[Tmoose]

With the airbag and related interlinked/interlocked electronics I'm askeered to swap steering wheels.

Like epoxy bot said, if I mess it up real bad, a cover will hide most of my sins, and provides some appreciated added girth too.

 

[blakmax]

I'm with Mint Julep on this one. The reason the original bond failed was almost certainly that the interface on the steel has hydrated leading to dissociation of the adhesive to metal chemical bonds. Just stuffing in fresh adhesive onto an already hydrated surface will never form any meaningful chemical bonds and any bond that is developed will be very weak and soon fail. The mess is not the problem, it is the futility in thinking that the new adhesive can bond to an unprepared surface. And please don't think that flushing the region with a solvent will help. What you need for a reliable bond is a FRESH CHEMICALLY ACTIVE surface. Just flushing with solvent will not do that.

Regards

Blakmax

 

[Compositepro]

This application does not require a strong adhesive bond. Just filling any gap between the metal and the plastic over-molding will fix the problem.