Stud shoe for rough sawn framing

[MintJulep]

Reference:

https://www.strongtie.com/miscellaneousconnectors_woodconnectors/hss-ss_productgroup_wcc/p/hss.ss

Anyone ever come across a version where the "W" dimension is 2" to work with rough sawn framing?

Alternately, an approved detail to shim out an over-sized shoe?

 

[Ron]

MJ...There are repair plates that only fit on the edge and do not wrap the faces. Also, not an answer to your dilemma, but code requires all structural lumber to be surfaced, graded and grade stamped. Rough Sawn lumber does not meet this code requirement. It can be used, but has to be independently inspected.

 

[MintJulep]

Thanks Ron,

I had thought that the edge only plates are "nailing protection" only.

This is existing framing circa 1928, now in scope of a bath addition.

 

[waross]

Take a sample to a fab shop and have some shoes bent to your specs.
As I remember working in early sawmills many years ago, one of the reasons for planing was to produce a uniform sized board.
Those old circular saws did not cut that true. If the sawyer dragged the RPM down on a heavy cut, the saw would wobble. Likewise if the saw became over heated it would wobble.
In addition, the sawyer (or the setter) typically set the thickness of the cut by watching a dial or a sliding gauge gauge that may be several feet away from him.
There was seldom any going back, if the cut was set a little thick, then the board was a little thick.
The old circular saws cut a kerf of 11/32" That rounded up to 1/3 of an inch quite well.
The set gauges were often market in inches and third inches.
A common mistake by inexperienced sawyers was setting one too many thirds.
Your 2" studs may not all be the same thickness.

Bill
--------------------
"Why not the best?"
Jimmy Carter

 

[dik]

Make them a little wider and bend the sides in a tad... they would have nearly the same strength... maybe a tad more.

Dik