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What geared dc motor is best to use for a custom automotive exhaust.

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Gsean430

Automotive
Jul 23, 2014
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I am making my own exhaust cutout that will have a exhaust valve open and close by switch. Does anyone know where I can find a geared motor or geared servo motor that can function reliably in extreme temperatures, it will be also be used in everyday driving conditions, any input would be helpfull, I would like for the motor to be reliable in a general term and would last me over 5 years at the least
 
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Bosch is a safe bet. They have lots of sturdy DC motors that can sit in dirt, water and ice for years.

If you want something cheaper, Parvalux has a range of motors where you either need to build a protective house or have to accept changing motor now and then if you drive in dirt and ice.

Either way, the Control Circuit can be extremely simple. Just a DPDT switch that connects motor via an incandescent lamp to +/- or -/+.

See for details.

Gunnar Englund
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Half full - Half empty? I don't mind. It's what in it that counts.
 
Thanks for the reply. Basically it's the exhaust temperature that is really what I'm worried about, would I need one with metal gears to hold up with the heat and vibrations? I'm actually making my own exhaust cutout with a very different design that I can't go into much detail about, but I hope would someday go into production after a couple years of extensive testing. And I am asking cause I have very little knowledge with gear motors/servos and actuators, and the servo would basically be the heart of the whole product. i would hate to have a customer buy my product and the motor go out in a couple of years. I would like to keep the motor under a 100$ so I can sell my product at a competitive price. I will take a look at those suggested. Any other suggestions?
 
These Chinese DC motors all have metal gearheads:
If you want to use a "Brand Mark", you can go to But they will cost more.

My experience is that the chinese motors are quite durable. Especially in a dry climate.

The motor as such will fit easily into your $100 budget. In fact, I think that you could build the whole system at less than half your budget if you use the solution without limit switches, as shown in the article, and a manual DPDT switch to open/close the flap.

Gunnar Englund
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Half full - Half empty? I don't mind. It's what in it that counts.
 
A few inches of cabling or linkage between the motor and damper should do wonders for keeping the motor cool and allow some flexibility in the end users selection of mounting location, but if you must mount the motor directly on the exhaust piping try using a heat shield combined with nonmetallic insulating mountings and shaft couplings.
 
I would be considering a different type of actuator. Vacuum, pressure, or solenoid.

Bill
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"Why not the best?"
Jimmy Carter
 
I've designed and built exhaust diverters for industrial engines. Use a double-acting pneumatic actuator running on the intake manifold vacuum (use a solenoid valve to switch it back and forth). An electric motor in a hot environment is a non starter (pun very much intended). You might make it work with a fair amount of standoff, but in modern cars there just isn't enough room to get from the hot exhaust manifold to a relatively cool area using a straight-line linkage. Just my opinion...but been there, done that.
 
Thanks for the reply's everyone, I might just switch my actuator type, I am not sure, I'm actually working with a company right now to see if they can make me my own custom gear servo that can stand up to the heat since I don't really trust any online servo motors. Since that one from china is cheap, i might just buy one and put it through testing. mcgyvr, that company has horrible motors. The only review on that page is a bad one and I have seen plenty more on other forums regarding their motor.
 
I had another thought that may be useful:
The actuators for two speed rear ends are dependable and robust. They survive for years near the road surface on the front of the differential.
Power on one wire (Ground return) drives the actuator to one extreme position. If the actuator is blocked mechanically, an internal spring is charged and the movement is completed when possible. Power on the other wire drives the actuator to the opposite position with the same spring loading feature. Limit switches disconnect the motor at each end of the stroke. A heat shield along with the air movement from road speed should keep the unit cool enough.
Spend a few hours or days Googleing auto parts sites to find a suitable model.

Bill
--------------------
"Why not the best?"
Jimmy Carter
 
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