Wood Framing Methods -Hardware connectors, nails, screws

[StrEng007]

Got a question regarding the typical means and methods used for residential wood construction. So far, I’ve encountered a lot of stick framing in high wind zones that relies heavily on Simpson’s connectors. I’m versed enough in the proper load path etiquette and the right selection and specification of these projects on paper.

My question regards the sequence of steps the carpenter will use to frame the building. Are most walls framed on their side and tilted in place? Does setting all the Simpson connectors before squaring the wall create a risk?

Simpson provides SDWC screw alternatives for using nails or in some situations can entirely replace the hardware. Promo videos for these applications almost always show the framer driving screws into an already vertical wall.

So which is it? Frame on ground with toe nails, tilt then add hardware and SDWC? I’d like the get the input from folks who see wood construction on a regular basis.

 

[phamENG]

Really depends on the crew building it. I think the most common that I see is framing it up on the ground, standing it up, squaring it, bracing it, sheathing it, and then adding whatever simpson hardware is called for.

 

[StrEng007]

How is a sill plate (mudsill, sole, etc. whatever) handled in that mix?

Part of the reason I'm asking is that I've noticed a majority of stud to plate connectors lack F2 (out of plane) capacity. So my solution, however non gracious it may be, is to provide a connector in combination with a single SDWC screw. I'm trying to get an idea of when these things actually happen.

 

[dauwerda]

Standard practice around here is to frame on ground (including most of the sheathing) and then stand up. No extra squaring is done other than relying on the sheathing and lining up with other framed walls. Hardware would then be added after that.

 

[StrEng007]

Back to the F2 issue, or non issue... if they set the stud to the sill plate with (2) 10d Common nails, I get around 342 lb of lateral capacity. This takes care of F2 and then a sill plate connector resolves uplift. No need for any SDWC screws.

 

[phamENG]

Right. Though the SDWC screws can be a nice alternative to the uplift connector, especially in concealed applications. I think they just released an outdoor version.