Mylar Ink - Rubber Stamping 1

• Jan 25, 2007

1
• #2

JedClampett

Structural

Aug 13, 2002

4,031

The problem with using regular stamp pad ink on Mylar is that it will take a long time to dry. You'll end up with smudged stamps.
We use Specialty Ink #1250 (and its activator) on the rare occasion when we stamp Mylars. Specialty Inks are in Deer Park, NY, at least when we bought our last bottle.

 

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• Jan 25, 2007

• #3

dik

Structural

Apr 13, 2001

25,752

Thanks, Jed... I didn't know that there was a specialty ink for mylar, other than that used for plotting. I've plotted the drawings with my seal attached and then signed the seal using permanent ink.

Dik

 

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• Jan 25, 2007

• #4

JedClampett

Structural

Aug 13, 2002

4,031

We do the same thing. But every once in a while we have to "wet stamp" a mylar after it has printed. So we have the stuff. Specialty Inks website is:

http://www.specialtyink.com/

Note that their website is pretty amateurish.

 

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• Jan 25, 2007

• #5

cvg

Civil/Environmental

Dec 16, 1999

6,868

there are ink pads out there with ink suitable for mylar, which doesn't require activator. I have been using the same stamp pad for about 15 years and use it on everything. Mine is Dennison Carter's Black 21-282

 

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• Jan 30, 2007

• #6

BBENG

Structural

Jan 30, 2007

9

Unfortunately we have to submit Mylar drawings on a regular basis. What seems to work best for us is to stamp the ink pad then a scrape piece of paper then stamp the Mylar. Or after stamping the Mylar and sealing the drawings place a post it note over the seal. A post it note is the perfect size to cover a seal and by the time the drawings are delivered to the reproduction business or the city the extra ink is absorb by the post it note and everything is dry with no smudges.

 

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• Jan 30, 2007

• #7

cvg

Civil/Environmental

Dec 16, 1999

6,868

i usually just spread them all out and then stamp all drawings. Wait about 15 minutes and then date and sign them all. Wait a few more minutes and they are dry enough to handle.

 

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• Jan 30, 2007

• #8

JStephen

Mechanical

Aug 25, 2004

8,620

One thing I learned way back when was that not all inks are equally opaque to UV like is used in a blue line machine. Any ink made for that should be fine, but other inks- test 'em first.

 

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• Jan 31, 2007

• #9

archeng59

Structural

Aug 24, 2005

620

I print my drawings with the seal on them. so far I have not had to wet seal anything. I use Sharpie markers to sign the drawings. mylar tears up the fine Sharpies, tho.

 

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