Eng-Tips is the largest engineering community on the Internet

Intelligent Work Forums for Engineering Professionals

  • Congratulations waross on being selected by the Tek-Tips community for having the most helpful posts in the forums last week. Way to Go!

LVL Beam deeper than existing joists 1

Status
Not open for further replies.

Ben29

Structural
Aug 7, 2014
313
0
0
US
We are removing load-bearing interior walls from an existing house. I need to install a series of new LVL girders to support the existing floor joist. The problem is that the new LVL will be deeper than the existing joists. So I think I need to cut the top plates and install a new column within the existing exterior wall, as needed to support the new LVL girder. Does the below detail look right to you? Is there a better way to do this?

My plan is to shore the existing joists and flush frame all of the LVL girders.

new_lvl_et4jta.png

framing_ntbi4x.png
 
Replies continue below

Recommended for you

Ben29 said:
Does the below detail look right to you?

Kinda depends on the story that you're trying to tell:

1) The top of the post needs lateral stabilization and your detail does a reasonable job of that in my opinion.

2) If your top plate is your diaphragm chord and you're trying to reconstitute it:

a) that probably requires fastening the exterior sheathing to the blocking which may be difficult and;

b) you may need more than one stud spacing's worth of blocking to get the job done.

Perhaps you have continuous rim board in this area that can either serve as the chord or splice the top plates across the disruption.
 
Thanks, KootK, you saved me again.

In reality, this house was built in 1911, and I am not sure what the existing framing will be (currently covered with drywall).
 
This is minor but I feel that it would be a bit more natural to run your plates over top of the post rather than into the sides of it. It creates a perp 2 grain demand in the plate although we often turn a blind eye to that anyhow.
 
Notching the beams at the ends to 8" depth might also be possible if the numbers work out for the notch?

This would have the benefit of not requiring the existing top plates to be cut.

Do you have access to both sides of the exterior walls, or can you not remove exterior cladding?
 
I'm not sure... but I would likely frame the LVLs 1/2" below the dimensioned lumber... like for a steel beam. With changes in moisture the dimension lumber will increase/decrease in depth while the LVLs will remain constant (I think). This will prevent a 'hump' in the floor if there is any dimensional change.

Rather than think climate change and the corona virus as science, think of it as the wrath of God. Feel any better?

-Dik
 
I would see if you can get some drywall (probably plaster and lath) off an exterior wall or exterior siding and take look at the wall framing. I would be willing to bet its balloon framing based on the age of the structure and not your typical stud wall. Then you can detail it accordingly. You'll probably have to frame something up around that column.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top