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2 ft. Overhang With Brick

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XR250

XR250

Structural
Jan 30, 2013
5,409
Darn Architect changed this from cedar shakes to brick. How would y'all go about constructing this overhang? I'm not a fan of trying to support that much brick on the framing above it. Run some lags thru the brick into some blocking? (yeah, I know, veneer is not load bearing blah blah blah). Use those funky Simpson BVLZ's?


BRICK_sttmuo.png
 
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I would agree. No brick "relief angle" in this case. The overhang is an architectural feature. I'd be ok with thru-bolting to blocking. Maybe even just some screw anchors to the brick might even be ok if it calcs out, but the thru bolting would help me sleep better. The most important detail here (in my mind) is the flashing (and likely this is up to the architect). Just to make sure the connection doesn't corrode over time.

EIT
 
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Turns out it is only a 12 inch overhang. I asked the architect (actually "designer") for a section through there and his response was, "I don't do sections" - WTF? This is what I ended up with...


BRICK_iamr1f.png
 
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In restoration we would use heli-fix ties. Blok-Lok sells a version here. They can go from brick / stone into studs and/or blocking without issue and are fine for cyclic loading situations. I've never used them for a permanent application myself (we generally use them for temp support when we want to replace shelf angles) but I know they have been used in such a way; call their technical department for guidance on that.

XR250 said:
Turns out it is only a 12 inch overhang. I asked the architect (actually "designer") for a section through there and his response was, "I don't do sections" - WTF?
Click to expand...

Get out. Get out now.
 
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Thanks, I'll check it out.

Enable said:
Get out. Get out now.
Click to expand...

Honestly, if the contractor wasn't one of my best customers, I would. I already engineered it for cedar shakes then they switched to brick. In general, I don't take houses like this. There are a bunch of locations where they are stacking 8 ft. of brick on top of roofs. I'm just going to let code prevail on those areas and put a note that I am not responsible for cracked brick.
 
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How about Z shaped plates (galvanized or stainless?) that you'd lag to the framing and fasten the 2x with self tapping screws? It's a water integrity issue, but so is anything you'd try. They'd need to be placed with the veneer so that the vertical plate would be at a vertical mortar joint.
temp_aj0izc.jpg
 
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I actually like that idea. Borrows from cold formed framing details for getting thru rigid insulation. I imagine the contractor will prefer the timber screws however!
 
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I like the Simpson BVLZ system although I have not seen it on an actual project. It does what it is supposed to do.
 
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I feel it is too fiddly to be installed properly
 
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